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A Pet's Life: fact sheets
| DISCLAIMER | | | | | The staff at A Pet's Life (www.apetslife.co.za) are not trained vets or behavourists. We publish information on the site gained from other sources (and reference them) or from personal experience.
The advice or guideance given is not intended to diagnose, treat or cure and is not a substitute for a professional consultation.
We recommend that any advice followed, especially if related to supplements or medical treatments must be taken in the light of, and under the instruction, that your Vet must always be consulted.
Interactions between various drugs, supplements or homeopathic treatments is not always fully understood. Which is why you do need to consult your Vet.
We cannot be held responsible for any pet related issues related to the information or advice that is given.
When in any doubt, please consult your veterinarian or behaviorist.
Animal Behavourist details are published on the links page. | | |
| | DOGS | | | | Pet doors for your cats &/or dogs | 
Why is a pet door a good idea?
Pet doors allow you and your pet freedom and security: your pet can come and go as he pleases, without disturbing you at all hours of the night to let him outside, and you won’t have the security concern of leaving a window or door open.
Pet doors work well for households that have pets that like to roam outdoors most of the time, but need easy access to a warm and dry room during sudden thunderstorms, colder or rainier days, or to get to their food, water and bedding. In addition, your pet’s confidence may improve if he has freedom of movement and unwanted behavior problems - like destructive chewing, furniture clawing and excessive barking - may be solved when your dog is no longer dependent upon you to let him out
When deciding on a pet door, A Pet’s Life offers a wide range of different brands, sizes, types and colours.
Your choice should be dependent on the size and breed of your pet, your personal aesthetic and safety requirements, and your budget. Browse the site and if the product information about the pet door you’re interested in is not clear enough, let us know and we’ll try and answer any other questions you may have.
What is the difference between cut-out and overall dimensions of a flap?
The cut-out is the size of the hole in the door and overall is the outer dimensions of the whole pet door.
How do I decide which door to get?
The first thing you need to consider before shopping for a pet door is the size of your pet. While this may seem obvious, if you have a new puppy, an overweight pet, several animals of varying sizes, or both a cat and dog, you definitely need to take into account their different and changing size requirements when choosing a pet door.
How is a glass-fitting pet door installed?
People usually use double-sided tape or silicone to fasten the frame to the glass, if they don’t want to drill holes in the glass. For the 270/280 Big Cat Flap, the screws fit into the big hole, so no tape is needed.
We recommend a Glazier though for all glass-fitting pet doors.
The size and breed of your pet
You need to measure the height and width of your pet, and the weight to decide on the best possible pet door solution.
We have tried to indicate the cut out size of each pet door size on A Pet’s Life.
This is the actual opening size of the flap, which your pet will have to be able to pass through.
As long as the width of the pet's shoulder is small enough to fit in and the chest height (i.e. bottom of ribs to top of shoulders) plus a few centimetres for the legs to go through is sufficient, they will fit.
The height of the shoulders off the ground has more to do with the installation height i.e. so the dog doesn’t have to bend down to crawl through.
For a cat or miniature doggie, a plastic door that the pet has to squeeze through is fine, but for bigger/heavier/boisterous animals, there is a good chance the pet will break a plastic door, so we suggest an aluminium door that’s JUST wide enough, or the size up from that.
(Image courtesy of www.petsafe.com)
The level of access
You also need to consider the level of access you want to give your pet: the different locking systems vary from a strong plastic barrier that simply bolts the door from the inside, to a 4 Way Locking pet door which allows you to fully control your pet’s access (i.e.: in only - out only - opened – locked) .
There are also more sophisticated electromagnetic and infra-red cat flap and collar systems on the market. With these solutions, the pet flap ‘unlocks’ when it detects the relevant magnet or IR button on your cat’s collar; effectively ensuring that no stray animals have access to your home. You can even have multiple flaps with different settings, so each of your pets can have a different access point into your home.
Some flaps also have adjustable catches to restrict the opening of the flap in one direction or the other; for example to allow your dog to come in, but not go out again.
The surface the pet door will be installed into
You need to take into consideration the type of door or surface the pet door is going to be ‘embedded in’ i.e. Metal UPVC and wood doors, Glass, Screen doors, Walls, Sliding doors, Patio doors etc. Some pet doors even allow you to choose a specific finish or colour. It is recommended that pet doors which require installation into glass should be fitted by a glazier. The installation instructions and a cutout template are clearly indicated on the packaging of each pet door option.
The location of the pet door
Another thing you should consider is the location of the pet door – will it be leading directly into your house, a garage or cordoned off kitchen? Will the area on the ‘outside’ of the door be fenced in? Is it secure for your pet to roam around in freely in, when you’re not home?
It is also important to note that plastic pet doors will become brittle after an extended period in the sun and if a rougher/larger dog charges through the plastic unit, they can break the flap over time.
The rubber flap on the aluminium door seems easier for the dogs to push open i.e. it isn't so hard so they find it easier to push (more like a curtain).
In addition, when you close it with the aluminium security slider, it is more secure than the windows in your house. If the flap on the door tears after extended use, we have spare flaps and they are EASY to install - just unscrew the nuts at the top, push the flap on and screw the nuts back.
Level of security required:
- Plastic door with a polypropylene security barrier
- Sturdy aluminium frame with a steel locking barrier
- 4-way locking cat flap - in only - out only - opened - locked
- Catflap with a magnetic collar key; prevent strays from entering
- Infra-red door; allowing access by means of a coded collar key only
Whichever brand or style of pet door you go for in the end, we recommend you aim for a quality pet dog door that is durable, large enough for your pet to easily enter and exit, is quiet, and has a locking setting that meets your requirements.
If you have any other questions about pet doors, please do not hesitate to contact Kirsten & Tracy at info@apetslife.co.za and we guarantee we’ll get back to you.
A note of caution:
If you are getting a pet door for a large animal, we recommend you get one that has a 4-way locking system and that you install it in a door that doesn’t give easy access to the rest of your home. This is purely for your personal safety reasons. While most of the pet doors are made from a very thick, heavy-duty plastic or aluminium that is extremely difficult to break, and while some pet doors even have additional bars for security, these deterrents are not a 100% guarantee that pet doors can’t be broken and used as a means of gaining access to your home.
Note: this information has been compiled by the team at A Pet's Life from various sources and we hope you find it helpful. | | | | | | Training your pet to use the pet flap/pet door: | Training your cat or dog to use a pet door is usually a quick and simple process:
• Place treats on the opposite side of the door, and holding the door open, allow your pet to jump through to retrieve the treats.
• Repeat this a few times, but without shoving the animal through the door. Allow the pet to get used to going in and out of the door.
• Once your pet is comfortable with the process of going through the opened flap, close the flap and using treats again, show your pet how to use his head to push open the flap. This does sound slightly easier than it is as your pet may be hesitant to push open a flap that doesn’t yield straight away (such as the ones with weak magnets that stop the flap from flapping in the breeze). In most cases, transparent flaps are more attractive for this reason.
• Once your pet has experienced the freedom of being able to come and go as he pleases, he will start using the flap more often than the original method of entry and exit.
• Even older cats can be trained to use a cat flap – our 8 year old cat took to it quite quickly.
Another training suggestion specifically for the access control pet doors:
"...take the flap off during the day for a weekend and keep all the doors closed so that the dogs get used to going through the opening.
They can first use biltong to tempt them through and then just make fun noises inside and the dogs should go through.
Then put the flap back but hold it slightly up with a piece of string so it isn't completely closed i.e. the dogs have to lift the flap to get through but it is open enough for them to get a nose or possibly the head through.
It would probably work best if you have the flap opening to the inside and tempt them into the house.
Thereafter leave it on manual for a while and then activate and use the collars.
If one of them gets used to it, the others will probably follow or at least get that one to open it for them and follow them through."
Claire Grobbelaar from DogSense [claire@dogsense.co.za] suggests the following for older dogs/dogs that haven't used a pet door before:
Each step needs to be broken down into smaller more achievable steps. Success (and thus reinforcement) leads to more success.
Just leave the flap off for a few days and let it become a neutral stimulus instead now it is associated with stress, frantics and anxiety – because inadvertently the owners trying their best, might give off some signals of stress because the are expecting too much too soon. I understand that the dogs’ won’t eat in this context. Anxiety / stress shuts the digestive system down. They might need to work with one dog at a time or two or three – depends on the dogs.
I think they should contact a clicker trainer so that the trainer can assist them in preparing a training schedule and steps for each dog. One schedule does not work for all dogs – as they learn differently .The owners should not even try to get the dogs through the opening – that will happen as a consequence to the training you do beforehand. The trainer will probably start with just letting the dogs get use to the door for a few days, and then start rewarding the dogs for being in the vicinity, then for looking at the door, then for smelling it, then for bumping it with there nose, sticking their nose through etc etc….until the dog walks through. The trainer will also determine what combinations of dogs work well together or is it best to do it separately. And to help the owners to find that thing that the dog will be willing to work for. Also need to check for any physical discomfort or pain that could prevent progress, especially the older two."
Karen had the following insights to training dog's to use a flap for the first time:
"I think lots of patience and persistence is required, and the dog must get desperately hungry, cold or lonely to use it on his own the first few times….
Of course the position must be correct as well as the size, of course.
And a see-through one is better than a solid one, I think.
Also my little dog is terrified of things that move and/or clatter or bang so the flap really is quite terrifying for him, although he now looks through it at close quarters – mournfully so that I’ll let him in!" | | | | | | Travel Sickness | Information from Eco-vet (www.ecovet.co.za)
TRAVEL SICKNESS
What is travel sickness?
Travel sickness; or motion sickness, is an unpleasant, temporary disturbance of the body’s natural balance and equilibrium that occurs while travelling by sea, road or air. In the dog it is characterised by dizziness, salivation, restlessness and vomiting.
What causes travel sickness?
Travel sickness is caused by movement; the strong, repetitive movements that are usually produced by a car or boat.
The body's sense of balance and equilibrium are maintained by three elements:
1. The inner ear, which contains fluid-filled canals (the semi-circular canals) that react to strong repetitive movements
2. The eyes, which tell the brain where the body is in space; they confirm the direction of motion
3. There are a whole group of sensitive receptors on skin, joints and muscles, which tell the brain which parts of the body are moving
Why do symptoms develop?
The signs of travel sickness occur when the brain receives conflicting signals from these three systems. For example, the dog that is sitting quietly on the back seat of the car may only see the person beside it or the chair in front yet its inner ear and skin receptors sense that it is moving.
It is not known why some people and animals are more affected by travel sickness than others. It affects both sexes and all ages in equal numbers.
What are the symptoms and complications of travel sickness?
Travel sickness is usually just a minor annoyance and does not signify any serious medical illness, but some animals people can be markedly and temporarily disturbed by it. Symptoms of travel sickness include:
• loss of appetite
• nausea and vomiting
• dizziness
• cold sweats
• excess saliva production
• yawning
• rapid shallow breathing
These symptoms usually begin soon after transport begins and worsen as the journey continues.
There are very few complications associated with travel sickness although they can include dehydration following excessive vomiting and injuries following falls or unsteadiness. For many the greatest complications are the fact that transporting badly affected individuals makes the journey unpleasant for their fellow passengers.
What is the treatment for travel sickness?
Puppies should begin the adjustment processed at an early stage.
1. Allow them to spend short periods in the stationary car, preferably ensuring the experience is a fun thing.
2. Continue the process by playing in the vehicle with the engine switched on and gradually closing doors and windows.
3. Begin with five minute journeys and gradually extend these as the dogs reactions are monitored.
4. Do not allow food or water for two hours before the journey begins.
5. If possible the seating may be elevated to allow the animal to look out of the window.
6. Open a window whenever possible to get some fresh air.
7. Avoid strong odours and smoking.
If treatment is required?
There are a number of approaches that may be considered.
The products ECO-FEAR and ECO-TRAVEL are well established homoeopathic medicines that have an important role to play.
• Eco-Fear is our choice where restlessness and anxiety are the main problems.
• Eco-Travel must be considered where salivation and/or vomiting are factors.
• Severe cases, particularly collies and some terrier breeds, will require both medicines at the same time.
Dosing required?
Treat three times daily for ten days, irrespective of travel or not, as indicated by the weight chart on the product insert. After the fifth day begin the desensitisation process from stage five above.
In the future always give a booster treatment four hours and one hour before the journey commences.
Comment: Our own vet is himself a severely affected victim of travel sickness. He takes Eco-Fear when flying and Eco-Travel when sailing. They work extremely well for him.
Now! Doesn’t that show confidence in our products?
Information from Eco-vet (www.ecovet.co.za)
| | | | | | Car Travel with your Pet | Think of your pet as a human baby when it comes to car travel.
You want the ride to be fun, but more importantly you want the ride to be safe. You also don’t want your pet associating all car travel with a nasty visit to the vet, being yelled at, or getting car sick, so get your pet used to your ‘car rules’ early on eg staying in a specific confined area of your car (and not on your lap or at your feet), how and when to get in and out of the car, or becoming familiar with the travel carrier.
If your pet is not used to travelling with you, or you get it when it’s still young, start by teaching it how to behave in the car with the engine off initially, before advancing to having the engine running and then only doing shorter trips. You can use treats and praise to install a sense of comfort and an understanding of appropriate car behaviour.
Cats typically do not enjoy any mode of transport, but we can suggest some steps to take to keep the yowling and crying to a minimum.
We recommend you always use a travel carrier when transporting an unhappy travelling kitty! Cats go into a sort of “I’m safe in here” mode when they find themselves in a travel carrier, especially if it is the same carrier that they have been able to sleep in and explore at home.
It’s advisable to restrain the carrier with a seatbelt so that it doesn’t bounce around and possibly hurt your pet.
There are a number of car seat protectors available on A Pet's Life that will not only serve to keep your dog contained in the back seat, but also protect your upholstery. Check out the very popular Hammock Car Seat Protector which is 140x150cm and loops around the front seat heads.
To make your pet even more comfortable and relaxed, spray Feliway inside the carrier and your car 20 minutes before you're ready to go. It should soothe your cat on the ride.
If this doesn’t work and you want a sedative, then talk to your Vet. But we do recommend you test the sedative out a few days before your trip so that if there are any adverse reactions, you can take your pet immediately to the Vet for help.
Whether you’re travelling with a cat or dog in the carrier, make sure the pet has a harness or collar & lead on before it goes into the carrier, so that if the animal bolts when you open the carrier door, you have something to hold on to.
Rogz do a cat harness if you want a walking harness for your kitty.
It is also a good idea to travel with your pet in the back seat of the car because of the possibility of a front-seat passenger side airbag deploying in an accident and hurting your pet.
In addition, we feel passionately that pets should not be allowed to ride with their heads outside car windows nor in the back of a bakkie without a travel crate. Pets allowed to stick their heads out the window can be injured by particles of debris (next time a stone flicks up and leaves a chip in your windscreen note how quickly it can happen and imagine that same risk to your dog’s eyes) or become ill from having cold air forced into their lungs.
We sell the Mikki window vent and the Four Paws Pet Safety Sitter which will restrain your pet and discourage them from hanging their heads out of the window!
Smaller dogs might enjoy the Outward Hound smooth ride car booster seat which can be easily attached to the passenger seat of most cars and will allow your little dog to look around, without being tempted to climb onto your lap.
If your dog rides with you in your convertible, on a
motorcycle, or in the back of a pickup, he/she needs eye protection. Sunglasses for dogs, Doggles, offer 100% UV protection, are shatterproof and provide protection from wind and debris.
| | | | | | Travel Tips for you & your pet | Anyone who has travelled with a child or baby will know how much preparation and consideration goes into the trip to ensure it’s painless and pleasant for everyone involved.
It should be exactly the same when travelling with your pet.
Whether popping off to the Vet or beach quickly, taking a longer road trip or even travelling by air, we suggest you take the following into consideration to minimize the amount of stress for your pet, yourselves, and the people/other animals you come in contact with on your outing:
• Ensure your pet is healthy enough to travel with you. Travelling with a pet that is recovering from an operation, is pregnant, gets car-sick quickly, is very old/young or is a nervous passenger is not recommended.
• Make sure to pack enough pet food for the trip. Don't count on picking some up during your trip as your pet's favorite food may not be readily available. It’s also useful to pack portable water/food dishes, and any grooming supplies so that your pet is clean and comfortable throughout the trip. The Wag Mutt Mat is a great “fold-up-n-go” water resistant canvas mat that is perfect for your pet to sleep on in the car, or even under a tree when you stop for lunch.
• Grooming your pet (bathing, combing, trimming nails) before a trip will make it more pleasant for both you and the pet.
• It’s a good idea to have your veterinarian give you a copy of your pet’s medical history to take with you just in case a visit to a veterinarian along the way becomes necessary.
• Don’t forget to bring along some favorite toys and tasty treats. These will keep your pet contented for hours while you enjoy your trip.
• No matter how short the trip, always take along a container of drinking water for your pet. The Le Bistro handi-drink is a useful portable water carrier, while the Outward Hound day hike waist pack is a convenient way to carry all your pet’s gear, including extra snacks and water.
• Some pets have sensitive stomachs and get car-sick. Take along ice cubes which are easier on your pet than large amounts of water.
• Stop frequently to allow your pet to exercise and eliminate. Your pet should wear a sturdy collar with ID tags throughout the trip. The tags should have both your permanent address and telephone number on it, as well as the address and telephone numbers where you or a contact can be reached during your travels, just incase the pet gets lost or runs off.
• We also recommend you carry a current photograph of your pet with you, especially if you’re doing a longer road trip. This way, if your pet does get lost, a photograph will make it easier for others to help you find your pet.
• Keep feeding to a minimum on the trip. If you are traveling by car, a small meal for your pet two to three hours before you leave is advised. If you are traveling by air, a light meal four to six hours before departure is recommended. Allow small amounts of water periodically in the hours before the trip.
• Always travel with Simple Solution cat spray & urine stain & odour remover, Instaclean Pet Stain & Odour Remover or Pheroma odour neutralizer to remove traces of any indoor accidents or lingering urine smells.
• ALWAYS make your travel timetable consistent with ‘toilet’ stops where your leashed dog/cat can walk around, get some exercise, and go to the toilet.
• Be sure to have ‘doggie clean-up’ poo bags with you always. We love the Bags on Board dispensor pack as it fits easily on a key ring or in a hand bag and is environmentally friendly too! If you’re travelling with your cat, it’s best to take along it’s preferred litter and litter box, although don’t expect your cat to use it along the way, as it’ll probably be in the sulks until it gets to the final destination ;-)
• DAP and Feliway are both products that can be sprayed in the car to calm your dog or cat.
If your pet doesn’t travel well, or your destination isn’t pet-friendly, then get yourself a reliable pet sitter or find a clean, well-managed boarding facility. Your local Vet should be able to recommend reasonable options, but always ask for references or go visit the facility before you subject your pet to it.
The South African Pet-Friendly Directory is the definitive guide to holidaying with your pets and lists accommodation and venues throughout SA that will welcome you and your dog, cat or bird. The Directory is also filled with great travelling tips and contacts for training and pet services, alternative health treatments and other useful references.
| | | | | | Flying with a Pet | We have investigated the IATA requirements for travelling with your pet and have summarized their suggestions when choosing the perfect size carrier for your pet:
• The travel box should be big enough to allow your pet to be able to stand up, in a normal position, lie down and turn around in. Your dog’s head/ears should NOT be touching the top of the travel box. To measure your pet: height is measured from top to bottom in a standing position, while length is measured from nose tip to the base of the tail.
A further 10cm in height and length is then added in order to comply with airline regulations.
1. Note: The Airline charges are based on volumentric weight of the carrier, which is why we don’t sell the wooden box options.
• Your travel box must be fitted with an attached water container. You can use a normal tupperware or plastic bowl for the water, so long as it’s attached to the pet container, even if it means using cable ties to connect the water bowl to the mesh door of the travel box. You can also use a slow-release water bottle but make sure your dog is familiar with how this works before you fly.
The airline will fill the water bowls before and after the flight so if the water spills out, your dog won’t dehydrate, but the water bowl must be easy to reach as they won’t be opening the carrier door to get to the water bowls.
• You can put a blanket, toy and/or chew into the travel box, but no raw, wet or dry food that the dog might choke on.
• You will need to use cable ties (or similar) to double lock the door of the container so that it can’t come loose during the trip.
• The mesh door and the clips on the carrier should be metal, although most Vari kennels - the preferred travel crates - now have heavy-duty plastic clips that are acceptable.
But we do recommend taking additional cable ties to ‘double-lock’ the carrier. The last thing you want is a clip being bumped open in commute and your pet running loose in the hanger or worse, the plane itself.
A word of warning though: it would be advisable to make contact with your airline before you travel to follow up and ensure that there are no changes to the rules/additional requirements in the meantime. We also recommend you let your vet know of your travel plans incase there are additional vaccinations or concerns he may have with your pet travelling.
Please also be aware that most airlines won’t allow you to travel with both dogs in 1 carrier.
A handy tip from one of our customers who bought a Skipper carrier from us for their Yorkie: try fly during the week so all the necessary staff are on hand/easily contactable, and see if you can check-in early, before the crowds, so your dog can be settled somewhere quiet before the pre-boarding rush.
13/05/09
We have recently been told by a Pet Travel agency that Lufthansa will accept SMALL dogs in the hold with you, for all flights between JHB and Frankfurt. This is applicable only to small dogs (dog & bag must weigh less than 8kg) and the dog must be in a proper carrier bag.
A good source for long haul/overseas travel guidelines is: http://www.ana-aviation.com/.
| | | | | | Q&A for electronic and static stimulation devices | Q: How do the pet containment systems work?
A: (From Petsafe®)
PetSafe® Wireless and In-Ground Electronic Containment systems offer solutions for keeping your pet safe in your yard.
The installation and training is easy with a manual that walks you through every step. A single system can contain all your pets with the purchase of additional Receiver Collars. The system is suitable for most pets including dogs over 3.5 kg and cats over 2.7 kg, when using the appropriate collar.
Keep your pet safe, stop him from:
- charging out the gate when you open it
- digging under the fence
- jumping over the fence
- going too close to the pool (for blind dogs or those that cannot swim)
- accessing unwanted areas e.g. dustbins, flowerbeds, irrigation systems
- fighting with other dogs through the fence
The Radio Fence system consists of a transmitter, transformer, 165 m boundary wire, 50 flags, an operating and training manual and video.
The transmitter sends a very low frequency signal through the boundary wire which is buried up to 10 cm underground or attached to the wall/fence that encloses the property in a closed loop. Your pet wears the receiver collar with contact points (probes) that touch his neck. When your pet reaches the warning zone (20% warning zone), the collar gives a beep. If your pet continues into the static correction zone (80% correction zone) he receives a safe, static correction to get his attention (similar to the sensation you feel when walking across a synthetic carpet and touching a door knob). The sensation startles your pet but is not harmful and can be set to suit the temperament of each individual pet, starting at the lowest levels and keeping it at the lowest effective correction level.
You need to take the time to train your pet in order ensure that they understand that they are not allowed to cross the perimeter you are setting and make sure there is a visual indication of the barrier (such as the flags) at the start of the training for an 'invisible' barrier, or your perimeter fence.
The most important thing to remember with any containment system is that it is a psychological barrier, not a physical one. The training you give your dog on the system is the most important part of the set-up. The system only acts as a reminder of the training your dog received.
- Up to 1200 meters of boundary wire (90 000m2) i.e. up to 10 acres property size
- The width of the boundary zone (i.e. distance from the boundary wire that the collar will detect and react to the signal) can be set on the transmitter from 0.5 m – 10 m (under ideal conditions)
- Boundary Control Switch Settings: A > 700 m wire, B < 400 m wire , C 400-700m wire
- Transmitter should be installed in a dry and protected environment
- 165 m of boundary wire is supplied with the kit, this can be expended with insulated 0.65 – 1mm copper wire (14-20 gauge)
- Use with any of the receiver collars.
| | | | | | Q: How do the bark control collars work? | A: (from PetSafe®)
Excessive barking can cause a real strain on the owner/pet relationship, and cause countless neighbourhood squabbles. Dogs vary in size and temperament, and all barks are not created equal. That’s why PetSafe® offers customized solutions -- a complete range of bark control collars.
Barking is a very important part of a dog's life. It is when this barking becomes a nuisance that pet owners need to step in and seek a way to control it.
There are many ways to reduce a dog's nuisance barking - from environment enrichment to adequate exercise.
However, when these methods are not effective, a tool that can be used is an anti-barking device. There are many different types of products from wall-mounted to hand-held, to collars worn by the dog.
The aversives that are used are sound (sonic, that you and I can hear, and ultrasonic, sound that only a dog can hear), spray (air, lemon, and citronella), static or electronic stimulation.
The idea behind a bark control collar is to automatically and consistently deliver an aversive when the dog barks to teach the dog not to bark, thus avoiding the aversive or punishment. As such, you need to pick a collar that will deliver the aversive consistently and the aversive has to be one that will be effective for your dog. Some aversives are more effective than others depending on the dog and how often the dog has been exposed to it causing them to habituate or become used to the aversion.
No matter which product is selected, a bark control collar is only intended for nuisance barking and should be removed from the dog when barking is permitted.
If you think your dog’s barking is caused by something like anxiety, phobias or aggression, seek the advice of your veterinarian or professional trainer or behaviourist.
| | | | More Q and A on static stimulation devices (PetSafe®) | Q: Should I talk to my vet about using static stimulation to solve behaviour issues?
A: Before starting training to solve any behaviour issues, you should consult your veterinarian to ensure the cause of the behaviour problem is not clinical (such as bladder infection causing inappropriate urination).
Q: Will static stimulation hurt my dog?
A: No, the level of power used in static stimulation devices is designed to get attention or interrupt a behaviour, not to cause pain. It is recommended to use as low level of stimulation as possible for the temperament of the dog and the situation (type of training and distractions). Most manufacturers use six to nine volt batteries in receiver collars and there is not enough power to cause pain or tissue damage.
Q: Will static stimulation devices burn my dog's neck?
A: As stated above, most devices are powered by a 6- or 9-volt battery and there is not enough power to cause burns. However, injuries that may resemble burns do occur if the collar is on too tight for too long, this is called pressure necrosis and can be aggravated by the presence of dirt and moisture. This is why it is important to follow most manufacturer recommendations to inspect the neck where the collar is worn looking for any redness or sores on a daily basis.
Q: How does static stimulation work?
A: A static electrical stimulus is delivered to a dog's skin via a receiver collar that is worn about the neck. The stimulation travels between two contact points through the skin, which causes a tingling sensation that is designed to get attention or interrupt a behaviour.
Q: Will static stimulation work all by itself?
A: The use of static stimulation is part of a training program whether it is containment, bark control, or remote training. Most manufacturers include detailed training instructions with their products; these should be followed to ensure proper use of the static stimulation products. A good example is a containment system; this is not a physical barrier but a psychological one. It is the training that keeps the dog in the yard; the collar only reminds them of the training that they received.
Q: How long do you use the collar?
A: The answer to this questions depends on how you use it, however, no static stimulation collar should be left on for more than 8 to 12 hours to give the skin a rest - check the skin where the contact points touch daily for any signs that the collar might be on too tight. The length of time the collar is needed depends on its use, for example, a containment collar needs to be worn whenever contained to remind your dog where its boundaries are but a remote trainer collar only needs to be worn when training or when the behaviour you are working on occurs.
Q: Why should I use static stimulation instead of a spray collar?
A: Both forms of stimulation are very effective. Their use on a particular dog will depend on owner preference and its effectiveness on the dog for the behaviour you are working on. For example, a spray collar may be very effective on a particular dog for barking but not enough of an interrupter to stop the dog from jumping up on visitors. Both are effective tools that one must consider for helping to solve problems that otherwise, may result in deteriorating the relationship with the dog.
Q: Should I use static stimulation or hire a dog trainer or a behaviourist?
A: All three options are excellent resources to use to help you solve any problems or improve the relationship you have with your dog and their use depends on you, your dog, and what you hope to achieve. Many times, a combination of the choices is what is needed. There is no one answer that solves the issues with all dogs all the time.
Q: Is static stimulation inhumane?
A: If used properly, static stimulation products are not in-humane.
Q: If static stimulation is unpleasant, why would I want to use it on my dog?
A: Static and spray are forms of punishment for a behaviour that is unwanted (barking, escaping, disobedience, etc.) and, in many instances if used correctly, the need to use the stimulation or punishment reduces as the dog learns what is wanted. However, some owners are reluctant to use punishment initially and choose to use alternative techniques that rely on positive reinforcement. Each owner should try to find the best method or technique that is effective for each individual dog and the skills of the owner.
Q: What if static stimulation does not work for my dog?
A: As stated above, there are many training techniques and methods, no one technique or method will work for all dogs and all situations. If you find static stimulation does not work for your dog, try a different technique or method. You may want to consult with a professional trainer or a behaviourist.
Q: Are all static stimulation products the same?
A: No, there are several manufacturers of static stimulation products (containment systems, bark control, and remote trainers), you should select based on features that are important to you, safety, and quality.
Q: How big or old does my dog need to be to use static stimulation?
A: The size of the dog that can use static stimulation is really dependent on the size of the receiver collar and if the dog can comfortably wear the collar. As technology improves, the receiver collars are getting smaller and smaller. The best thing to do is to look at the size of the receiver collar and determine if your dog could comfortably wear it based on their body type. As far as age, the old adage "You can't teach an old dog new tricks" just isn't true. Like us, a dog is never too old to learn but puppies can be too young. A good rule of thumb is once a puppy can be trained to simple commands, like sit and stay, he is ready to learn with any type of training (too early and they do not have the attention span to pay attention and to learn).
Q: Can a person that is holding a dog receive the static stimulation?
A: The static stimulation is delivered between the contact points and, unless your hand is touching both contact points, you will not feel the stimulation.
Q: Can static stimulation devices be used safely in the water?
A: Since the stimulation is delivered between the contact points, being wet does not increase the level of stimulation - in fact, with wet fur, the stimulation may be reduced.
Q: I have an older dog with health issues, should I introduce static stimulation training?
A: It is always a good idea to check with your veterinarian before initiating any training program to ensure that your pet is physically ready and to rule out any clinical reasons for a behaviour issue. Your veterinarian knows your dog's health concerns the best and will know if any type of training will stress them too much.
Q: Will a static stimulation collar attract lightning?
A: There is nothing in a static stimulation collar that will attract lightning any more than a pet without a collar.
Q: What if I feel the level of stimulation is too strong or too weak?
A: Most static stimulation products are adjustable. Follow the manufacturer's instructions to adjust the unit to fit your needs.
| | | | | | More about the Pet Persuader Electronic fence | * Persuader can be used for small animals such as dogs, cats, rabbits, baboons, dassies, buck, pigs etc.
* Stops pets from destroying flower beds etc.
* Stops them jumping over walls
* Burrowing through fences
* Keeps them out of dustbins & bird feed areas
* Stops the digging up of irrigation systems
* Protects fish/ koi ponds, etc.
What voltage does it make?
About 2500 Volts - pulsed. Each pulse of about 2500 volt is on for about one thousandth of a second, and then off for almost a second.
The 'off' interval is required by law. The output voltage is PULSED, so strictly speaking it is neither AC or DC.
How much power does it take from the mains?
PERSUADER uses about 5 Watts of power - far less than the average light bulb. It only uses a few Milliamps.
How much power does it put into the fence?
About 0,1 Joules of energy is transferred to the fence. (Crude estimate).
How high are the poles?
The poles are 70cm in length.
How long a fence can the kit build?
10 - 12 metres of fence can be assembled by using the contents of the kit.
But: (Important!) the energizer can power up to 2,5 kilometres of live wire, thus the kit is very extendable.
One simply needs to add more poles and wire to have a longer fence – The energizer will cope with ease.
What will happen if a small child touches the fence?
The energy put out by PERSUADER is so low that it cannot cause any physical harm. A child touching the fence will get quite a fright but the child will be unharmed. Very strict laws govern the design of a device such
as PERSUADER. PERSUADER complies fully with all these requirements, and actually goes far beyond these laws as far as safety is concerned. Therefore it is perfectly safe.
Will this kit work for horses/cattle/sheep/etc.?
It probably will, but it has been designed for household pets and smaller animals such as baboons, small buck, dassies, etc. therefore we cannot give a definite guarantee that it will work for all other animals.
Can we use PERSUADER to power several separate fences?
Absolutely, as long as the total length of live wire (i.e. wire connected to the live terminal) does not exceed
2,5 km. The separate fences are simply connected together using 2-core flex wire (available from any hardware
or electrical shop). Simply connect the ‘live’ parts of the separate fences together with one core, and the earths with the other.
How do we use PERSUADER to stop an animal jumping over a wall?
By mounting the fence on top of the wall and connecting it as shown in the instructions, or by erecting the fence in the ground a half metre or so in front of the wall, i.e. at the point from where the animal would leap in order to scale the wall (this is less time consuming than to mount the poles on or against the wall).
Where must the energizer be mounted?
The energizer must not get wet (it is NOT waterproof), and should be kept out of direct sunlight (else it may get too hot). It should preferably be mounted inside your house or garage, or in your pool filter housing, etc. Use 2-core flex (available from any hardware or electrical shop) to connect it to the fence outside.
PERSUADER comes with a one year warranty. This covers everything
except lightning damage. The warranty is also void if the unit is opened by the customer, or tampered with or allowed to get wet (the energizer is not waterproof). All of this is clearly stated in the instructions. | | | | | | Your dog should be wearing sunglasses that block UV rays too. | Research has shown that long hours in the sun without adequate eye protection increase the chances of developing eye disease.
UV-absorbant sunglasses and sungoggles can help protect your eyes and the eyes of your pet from sun damage.
The American National Standards Institute (ANSI) has set standards for UVA and UVB protection in sungoggles. ANSI requires that a pair of sungoggles block at least 50 percent of UV rays.
Check the label! The ideal sungoggles do not have to be expensive, but they should block 99 to 100 percent of UVA and UVB radiation.
Our labels read "UV absorption up to 400 nm," which is the equivalent of 100 percent UV absorption.
For dogs with the increasingly common eye disease, Pannus, Doggles are proving themselves very useful. It is well known that dogs with Pannus should stay out of direct sun and get protection from UV light.
Doggles are a great alternative for those dogs that can't stay inside during the day.
Doggles also provide protection from wind and debris. Whether your dog rides in a sidecar, on a
motorcycle, or in the back of a pickup, he/she needs eye protection.
Most dogs will readily accept Doggles after a short adjustment period. Training your dog to wear the goggles can be accomplished in a small amount of time if you follow these easy steps:
1) Don't put the goggles on your dog while indoors. Imagine yourself wearing dark tinted glasses inside. You cannot see, and neither can your dog.
2) When you first put the goggles on your dog, don't let him paw at the glasses or roll to get them off. Reassure him that its okay. Take him immediately to bright sunlight and let him realize that he can see with them on. Walk around, get his mind off the goggles.
3) Try to go through this routine as often as possible. The number of training sessions required depends on your dog.
Doggles come in many styles and sizes to fit any breed of dog from 3 pounds up to 250 pounds. Many different colors of frames and lenses are available.
Doggles ensure a perfect fit by using two adjustable head straps - one behind the head and one under the chin. The chin strap simply wraps under your dog's chin and snaps into place. They are very simple to use.
We care about your dog's comfort. The straps are made of comfortable, plush elastic. The inside of the frames are lined with foam padding. The frames are completely flexible and will bend to wrap around
your dog's face, regardless of the shape of the face. | | | | | | Puppy School - why it's important and how to select yours | Puppy school is an absolute must - but starting early is critical.
During the first four months of a puppy’s life he will learn more social skills than during the remaining course of his lifetime. The environmental stimulation and the learning that develops during these 16 weeks forms lasting emotional and cognitive patterns of thought that can affect behavior for a lifetime.
Puppies don’t usually come with “built in” good behavior. And it’s quite daunting when the fun and excitement wear off and you realize your puppy’s learning fast… just all the wrong things.
It’s all too clear that what you do and don’t do in puppyhood will affect your dog's behavior forever. You wonder to yourself – “where’s that instruction manual? Do people still rub their noses in it and wallop them on the bum - or is that bad parenting these days?”
The easiest route to learn all you need to know about bringing up a puppy in a positive way is to take him a good Puppy School.
• It allows your puppy to play with other breeds of puppies in the same age group, learning important social skills
• It introduces your puppy to unfamiliar situations and teaches him how to cope appropriately
• It teaches your puppy some basic obedience skills such as sit, down, stay, come, heel
• It teaches you the basics of positive reinforcement training principles which you can apply in the future.
• You get expert advice and can stop unwanted behavior before it becomes a problem
Does it sound like too much hard work? The sad reality is that next to age-related factors, inappropriate behaviour is the most common reason for euthanasing dogs. And the fact is that the way your pet behaves is entirely up to you. It is one of the responsibilities as a pet owner to teach your puppy how to behave appropriately in different situations and environments so that they become well adjusted, confident and obedient dog. It’s also not much hard work. It’s fun and it builds a strong and trusting relationship between you and your puppy.
So how do you select a good Puppy School? Here are some pointers:
1.The right “trainer”.
Look for someone who:
• Has good qualifications, experience and can offer sound advice on a wide range of puppy care topics
• Uses positive reinforcement training methods
• Makes training a fun & enjoyable experience for both of you and your puppy
• Is approachable and encourages questions
• Clearly explains and demonstrates each lesson
• Gives individual attention to students
• Allows sufficient opportunity for his learners to practice
2. Classes that are not too big.
Use 10 puppies as a rule of thumb although bear in mind the instructors experience and number of assistants. It’s important to have classes that allow for some individual attention.
3. Free play time
Is there a secure area where puppies can have off the leash free play time?
Letting your puppy play with other puppies is an important part of puppy training. Through play your puppy learns to socialize with other puppies. However make sure it’s carefully supervised and boisterous puppies are kept in line so that your puppy has a positive experience and becomes more confident in social interactions.
4. Environment & structure that stimulates exposure and learning.
The class should be broken down into small exercise sessions suitable for puppies to learn. There should be some equipment which stimulates learning and exposure to stimuli eg: tunnels, sound cd’s etc. Puppies and people should be relaxed and enjoying themselves.
The very best way to make an informed decision is to watch a class before you sign up.
Don't be afraid to ask others attending the Puppy School how they feel about the classes and whether their expectations are being met.
Hill's Pet Nutrition is dedicated to helping pets reach their full potential through quality nutrition and healthcare. We care about your puppy’s growth and development which is why we sponsor a number of reputable Puppy Schools.
If you are interested in locating a Hill’s sponsored Puppy School in your area, please call us toll-free on 0800 228 783
| | | | | | Bringing home a new puppy: tips | Bringing home a new puppy can be a wonderful experience and the beginning of years of companionship and unconditional love.
As your pet’s new parent, it is your responsibility to provide adequate support and make their transition as comfortable and un-traumatic as possible…
We’ve sourced a number of helpful tips and consulted with our animal health consultant for the best advice and guidelines for happy healthy new additions:
Just as you have a personal doctor, it is a good idea to take your new addition to a vet as soon as they are in your care. A full check up with the necessary shots and vaccinations is important. Remember to ask your vet questions about the breed you have: is it susceptible to allergies? Skin problems? After the initial check-up, you should schedule regular visits for your little pet (one a year for boosters, and whenever you suspect he/she may be ill or if you find a problem). Remember too that you can help keep your pet’s immune system supported through good food, healthy play and lots of love and affection!
10 TOP TIPS FOR BRINGING HOME A NEW PUPPY
1. Prepare!
Make sure you have all the necessary utensils ready. Stainless steel bowls (one for dry food and one for water), appropriate pet food for your puppy’s age, a comfy collar (able to fit two fingers easily underneath it) with a name tag, soft cotton leash, brushes and combs.
2. Puppy-safe your pad!
Ensure that all hazardous materials (chemical cleaning products, garden tools, blind cords and appliances) are out of your new pet’s reach. This includes anything bite sized that may be swallowed – get on your hands and knees and survey the area… are there large unstable items that may fall on your puppy? Are there any electrical outlets that need to be covered? Is the toilet seat up? If it isn’t safe for a baby or toddler, it usually isn’t safe for a puppy! Make sure you have a safe, confined area for your puppy when you cannot watch him. Baby gates work well to block off an area, or use a crate (an appropriate size for your pooch to stand up in, lie down, and turn around comfortably). Never leave a puppy in a crate for longer than 2 hours and never let him roam free in the home or garden unsupervised!
3. Provide toys and comfort items.
Remember that your puppy is going to be anxious and nervous. This is a traumatic time and you should do all you can to make your puppy relax. Bedding should be soft and appropriate for your dog’s size. Avoid stuffed blankets that may get chewed – and opt for a soft organic blanket if possible. Remember that you puppy will not differentiate between shoes as a toy and your new boots - so avoid giving him personal items to play with – rather provide toys to keep your puppy occupied: make sure they are not a choking hazard (usually toys that squeak) and rather provide teething toys (or a natural teething aid), or a clock to simulate a heart beat. Remember that your pet has been separated from its mother and may be pining. A warm bottle can also simulate other pups.
4. Ssshhh! Keep it quiet.
Start outside in the garden, and give puppy a chance to urinate – praise this! If he doesn’t urinate, that’s okay too, but remember to bring him to this spot when he shows signs that he needs to do his business, such as sniffing and circling. Accidents will happen – your puppy has no bladder control and will need to empty his bladder every three hours during the night. Never scold a puppy for messing, or rub its nose in its mess – this will lead to further problems down the line. Remember babies have nappies, but pet’s do not!
5. Take it easy on the little one.
Just like babies, puppies need frequent sleep. Don’t over excite your puppy and give him the time to relax and recuperate after the new move. As hard as it may be, resist letting your puppy sleep with you as this may lead to problems later on. Start off the way you intend to finish. A puppy takes a few nights to feel safe and if your puppy is in a central, enclosed area in the middle of the home, where he can hear and smell you, he will feel that you are nearby.
6. Meeting the family.
Make your kids part of the puppy experience – and let them take part in choosing a puppy. 2-3 sessions a day of 15-30 min playing with the puppy is enough – don’t exceed this or your puppy will be too tired. It is very important that children keep their voices quiet and don’t startle the puppy. Teasing is a NO-NO! Holding something out of reach will just make your puppy learn to jump up and whine. Teach children to be gentle, and encourage them to help feed and groom the pup. Always supervise the interaction between small kids and a puppy.
7. Making new friends.
Keep resident pets separated from your new puppy for a few days. After that time, let pets smell and touch each other through a slightly open door. Do this several times over the next few days. After that, give the resident pet access to the den area with your new puppy. Supervise their meeting and go back to through-the-door meetings if trouble arises. Do not take your puppy to public places where there are other dogs until he is at least four months of age. By this time, he will be done with his vaccinations and have a stronger immune system. Give your resident pet access to the area. Let pets smell and touch each other through the crate or pet gate. Do this several times over the next few days. Give the resident pet access to the den area with your new puppy out of his crate. Supervise their meeting and go back to through-the-gate/crate meetings if trouble arises.
8. Au Naturale.
Unless your puppy is extremely dirty or smelly, avoid bathing. If he is a little scruffy, rather use a baby wipe to clean him. At the absolute most, adolescent and adult dogs should be bathed once a month. Using human shampoo is never recommended! Remember, your puppy's skin is sensitive and the wrong type of shampoo will cause irritation or skin problems. Try a natural shampoo as these are very gentle.
9. Choosing a name.
Your puppy should have a name that is short, and two syllables. This is so that it won’t be confused with one-syllable commands such as "No" or "Sit." Make sure all family members use the same name and avoid nicknames as this will cause confusion for your dog. Always reward your puppy's recognition of it’s name with lots of positive praise and play.
10. Handle with care.
Just like a newborn or infant baby, a puppy's body is also very fragile. Try to only pick up your puppy if it is absolutely necessary. When you do pick up your pup, follow these steps: Place one hand under your puppy's bottom, and place your other hand under his chest. Lift with both arms and hold him close to your body. When he gets larger (medium size), then wrap both arms around his legs, draw him to your chest and lift.
Remember that above all, your new puppy is fragile and vulnerable. Don’t treat him like an adult dog – have patience and understanding, shower him with love and attention and before long you will have the most loyal friend you have ever known!
Sourced, with our thanks, from PetAlive | | | | | | Recommendations for leads/harnesses for a new Dog/Puppy | The right equipment for your dog can often prevent behaviour problems and even some medical problems, provided you use it correctly.
COLLARS AND HARNESSES:
Collar
The best collars are lightweight webbing or thin leather. An adjustable webbing collar with a plastic buckle is idea for a puppy as it is more likely to chew leather. Collars are also often perfect for walking and training your dog. Make sure it fits properly and does not slip off if your dog pulls back. It should not be too tight either, as it may damage the windpipe. You may need to tighten it slightly for walks. A slip collar is designed to tighten slightly when the lead is pulled to prevent your dog from escaping, but should release easily.
Nametag
A collar should be worn at all times with a nametag on it, even if your dog has a microchip.
Harness (webbing or soft leather)
A harness is for walking or training and should not be left on your dog. Martingale (e.g. Mikki Walkrite) and step-in harnesses are specially designed to prevent pulling as the dog pulls against its own weight, not your arm. A harness is useful because it helps to prevent the lead getting caught up in the dog’s feet. Also small dogs can be lifted to safety, if necessary, using the harness. A harness can also be clipped to the car seatbelt to prevent the dog from jumping around in the car, preventing injury in the case of an accident.
Head halter (e.g. Halti / Snootloop)
A head halter is useful for a dog that pulls on the lead or is aggressive or over-friendly during walks. The lead is attached under the chin and therefore pulls the head into a submissive position rather than a dominant one, as with a collar. Head halters are not muzzles and when used correctly your dog can drink, eat, pant and bite with it on. It is important that your dog likes the halter and does not try to get it off. Using it in combination with a collar and two leads is ideal.
Check chain
This is to be used for training purposes only in dogs over 8 months old. A check chain should never be left on a dog as it could cause strangulation if it gets caught on something. It should be used correctly so as not to cause spinal damage and the dog should never be choked or jerked. The idea is to remind your dog that you mean what you say and, after checking the lead, it should be released immediately. Often ordinary collars, head halters or webbing slip collars are preferable and sufficient for training purposes.
LEADS:
Webbing lead
A two metre long webbing, leather or rope lead (no chains, as they are hard on the hands) is ideal. A long lead is better for general walks as it gives the dog more space to sniff and meet other dogs. It also gives you space to give correct body language signals, thus reducing the need to hang on tightly. For training purposes it is useful to have extra length for teaching the stay command.
Extending lead
Useful for walking on the beach/mountain. Some areas do not allow dogs off lead and puppies should not be off lead as they may get lost or into trouble if they get a fright or chase something. Some dogs are just unmanageable off lead. In these cases this type of lead is very useful as it gives the dog a lot of space without the owner losing control. Once the technique is learned the owner can reel the dog in quite easily. However this is not a good idea if you have two or more dogs.
EATING EQUIPMENT:
Food bowl:(plastic or metal)
Rather get one that is too big and don’t fill it. Two interesting meals a day are recommended rather than one large meal or leaving food out all day. Dogs that chew their bowls should be given a metal bowl.
Water bowl
The type that is filled automatically with a bottle is very useful, but make sure it is kept clean. Water bowls can never be too big. If your dog tends to tip over his bowl, fill the underneath with cement or have a few bowls around the garden.
Bowl frame
This raises the bowl for large dogs and helps to prevent flatulence and digestive problems.
POOP SCOOPS:
Various types
It is important to clean up your garden once a day to prevent the spread of flies, worms and diseases. It is also a good way to check on your dog’s health.
Toilet pipe fitting / French drain type disposal unit
Consider disposing of your dog’s waste in a more environmentally friendly way.
Plastic Bags
You can buy very nice dispensers and refills or just recycle your plastic bags and take a couple with you when going for walks to clean up after your dog.
SLEEPING:
A dog that is comfortable at night is unlikely to keep you awake by barking or digging up the garden. If you have more than one dog it is important that they each have their own sleeping place, even if they seem to share the same one. All bedding should be easily washable and regularly cleaned and treated for fleas.
Basket (wicker or soft type)
Baskets are not recommended for puppies, as they get chewed. I suggest a cardboard box until they are over the chewing stage.
Raised dogbed (not your bed!)
Cushion with washable outer cover
Blanket
Jersey for winter, especially for the shorter coated breeds
Kennel
A kennel is important if your dog is ever left outside without access indoors, so that he can get out of sun, wind, cold or rain. It should be large enough to lie in comfortably, but not so big that it gets cold easily. In winter an infra-red lamp or heater can be installed for extra warmth, especially for older dogs with arthritis.
MISCELLANEOUS:
Doggydoor
These are very useful, especially for small dogs, and help with housetraining and separation anxiety, however the dog may have to carefully taught to use it.
Dog whistle (silent/high pitched)
This is useful for long distance training or for dogs that wander during walks or that are going deaf.
Clicker
This training tool is used to train all types of animals, including dolphins, chickens and even humans, using positive reinforcement (treats) and can be used, if you learn the technique, to train dogs and cats. Find a clicker trainer to teach you.
Odour removing cleaner (various types)
Clean up and remove smells, especially if you’re housetraining a puppy or for incontinent dogs. If the smell is removed properly the dog will be less likely to repeat the mistake in that area. It’s also useful for the odd accident in the car.
Karen Gray-Kilfoil
Animal Behaviourist & Humane Educator
Email: kargray@telkomsa.net
www.animal-behaviour.org.za/karengray
| | | | | | Recommendations for Sleeping products for a new dog/puppy | SLEEPING:
A dog that is comfortable at night is unlikely to keep you awake by barking or digging up the garden.
If you have more than one dog it is important that they each have their own sleeping place, even if they seem to share the same one.
All bedding should be easily washable and regularly cleaned and treated for fleas.
Basket (wicker or soft type)
Baskets are not recommended for puppies, as they get chewed. I suggest a cardboard box until they are over the chewing stage.
Raised dogbed (not your bed!)
Cushion with washable outer cover
Blanket Jersey for winter, especially for the shorter coated breeds
Kennel
A kennel is important if your dog is ever left outside without access indoors, so that he can get out of sun, wind, cold or rain. It should be large enough to lie in comfortably, but not so big that it gets cold easily. In winter an infra-red lamp or heater can be installed for extra warmth, especially for older dogs with arthritis.
Written by
Karen Gray-Kilfoil
Animal Behaviourist & Humane Educator
Email: kargray@telkomsa.net
www.animal-behaviour.org.za/karengray
| | | | | | Grooming suggestions for a new dog/puppy: | GROOMING EQUIPMENT:
Grooming mitt / brush with rubber teeth (e.g. ZoomGroom)
This is used for short coats or to finish off longer coats. Brushing is important even for very “low maintenance” type dogs as it relaxes the dog and shows him who’s boss. It also helps with itchy skin and to promote a healthy, glossy coat.
Bristle and straight wire type brush
Used for short to medium coats, soft bristle for the face, paws and ears, wire bristle for the upper body.
Coat comb
This is useful for short thick coats as it removes excess undercoat, especially during moulting season.
Hooked wire type slicker brush
This is used for long coats, to brush from underneath and remove excess hair. Be gentle with this brush as it could be painful if used incorrectly.
Nail clippers
Get a vet or groom to show you how to use this as it is easy to cut off too much, causing bleeding, pain and fear of the clippers. Older dogs will need more frequent nail clipping than younger ones. If you aren't sure how much to cut off do it over a few days, cutting off a couple of millimetres every second day. | | | | | | Recommendations for eating bowls for a new puppy/dog | EATING EQUIPMENT:
Food bowl:(plastic or metal)
Rather get one that is too big and don’t fill it.
Two interesting meals a day are recommended rather than one large meal or leaving food out all day.
Dogs that chew their bowls should be given a metal bowl.
Water bowl
The type that is filled automatically with a bottle is very useful, but make sure it is kept clean. Water bowls can never be too big. If your dog tends to tip over his bowl, fill the underneath with cement or have a few bowls around the garden.
Bowl frame
This raises the bowl for large dogs and helps to prevent flatulence and digestive problems.
Karen Gray-Kilfoil
Animal Behaviourist & Humane Educator
Email: kargray@telkomsa.net
www.animal-behaviour.org.za/karengray | | | | | | Miscellaneous products to purchase for your new puppy/dog | MISCELLANEOUS:
Doggydoor
These are very useful, especially for small dogs, and help with housetraining and separation anxiety, however the dog may have to carefully taught to use it.
Dog whistle (silent/high pitched)
This is useful for long distance training or for dogs that wander during walks or that are going deaf.
Clicker
This training tool is used to train all types of animals, including dolphins, chickens and even humans, using positive reinforcement (treats) and can be used, if you learn the technique, to train dogs and cats. Find a clicker trainer to teach you.
Odour removing cleaner
Clean up and remove smells, especially if you’re housetraining a puppy or for incontinent dogs. If the smell is removed properly the dog will be less likely to repeat the mistake in that area. It’s also useful for the odd accident in the car.
POOP SCOOPS:
It is important to clean up your garden once a day to prevent the spread of flies, worms and diseases. It is also a good way to check on your dog’s health.
Toilet pipe fitting / French drain type disposal unit
Consider disposing of your dog’s waste in a more environmentally friendly way.
Plastic Bags
You can buy very nice dispensers and refills or just recycle your plastic bags and take a couple with you when going for walks to clean up after your dog. | | | | | | Why you should adopt a mixed breed puppy | Pavement specials, mongrels, slumdogs, or whatever you call
them…….
You must admit they have a certain charm about
them and, despite the derogatory names, they are often appealing in their sometimes odd, but unique, appearance.
However mixed breeds do have some real advantages over their more aristocratic cousins, the pedigreed dogs.
Many dog experts will advise against getting anything other
than a properly bred pedigreed dog. The reasons for this are that it is easier to determine the character and behaviour of a pedigreed puppy, based on the genetic origins of the breed.
For instance a Border Collie is almost guaranteed to be very active, very easily trainable and herd other animals as if they were sheep.
While there is nothing wrong with good genes, there are so
many other factors that go into making a good dog. The
genetic makeup of a dog is only a part of the story. The rest (and I believe more important part) of the story is the environmental influences on the puppy. Everything the puppy experiences affects its behaviour and temperament: such as its mother’s actions, the area where the pup is raised, how many littermates it has, its interactions with other dogs and people,
and so on.
The list is endless and environmental influences
continue to affect the dog until it dies. So every puppy,
whether pedigreed or of mixed parentage (even at 8 weeks
old) comes with some “baggage”, both genetic and environmental.
It is not a clean slate. Pedigreed puppies can
(and often do) have as much bad baggage as mixed breeds, depending on the breeder and many other factors. Luckily, despite all this, the way we raise and train a puppy has a lot to
do with how it turns out in the end, as young puppies are still
so impressionable and sensitive.
It is a recognised fact by most veterinarians (although I have not seen a scientific study to prove it) that mongrels are less
likely to have health problems. For example, hip dysplasia seems to be more prevalent in certain large breeds, but less common in crossbreeds. Bad breeding practises can cause
interbreeding-related health problems. Selection for a certain trait can make the breed less healthy, such as “squashed” faces, which affect breathing. Mixed breeds are generally more
resistant to disease, being tougher and stronger than their
well-bred relatives.
With thanks to: Karen Gray-Kilfoil
Animal Behaviourist & Humane Educator
www.animal-behaviour.org.za/karengray
| | | | | | How to choose a mixed breed puppy:
| - Do some research about what sort of dog you want.
- Look at breed books or websites for ideas.
- What do you want a
dog for? Companion / Watchdog / Sport?
- Consider your
lifestyle, living space and family composition. A small dog generally needs less space. A Maltese requires more grooming than a Jack Russell Terrier. A Jack Russell Terrier needs daily walks, games and training, while a Basset Hound needs less activity.
- Make a short list of the types of breeds you like and think will suit your home.
- Try to get pictures of these breeds and perhaps also of the puppies of these breeds.
- Go to your local adoption centre with your list and pictures. Explain what you would like and why, but also that you would be happy to take a mixed breed that fits most of your criteria.
is uncanny how often a dog that looks like a Labrador will behave exactly like a pedigreed one.
- If there is a suitable puppy available, have a look at its
mother (if possible) and compare the pup and its mother to your pictures to check that it really is more or less what you had in mind. Size is the most important factor and a second
opinion from an experienced veterinarian or breeder is a
good idea before making a decision. It is often difficult to
tell what size a puppy will grow up to be and looking at the paws is not always reliable.
- You may have to go to more than one centre or wait a few
months to find the right puppy, but it will be worthwhile
making the extra effort as your puppy may be with you for the next 15 years.
The ideal age to adopt a puppy is between 8 and 16 weeks of age. After that age (four months) the risk of bad baggage increases and puppies are less able to adapt as time goes by,
so you need to be a lot more careful.
However this applies as much to pedigreed dogs as mongrels.
Also, there are lots of slightly older dogs (juveniles) and mature dogs in rescue
centres - please consider giving these a home but check that the rescue centre gets a qualified animal behaviourist to assess
each individual dog which will greatly increase the chance of
getting a suitable pet.
The most important reason to adopt a crossbreed is that you
are giving a home to an animal that may otherwise not find a home and have to be euthanased.
Slumdogs often make the best pets and are usually healthier, so they save us money. Better to feel like a millionaire, than
look like one……
Extracted from SASHA newsletter (Oct 09), with thanks to the author Karen Gray-Kilfoil
Animal Behaviourist & Humane Educator
www.animal-behaviour.org.za/karengray
| | | | | | Brushing Your Dog's Teeth
The 5 Basic Steps...
| Brushing your dog's teeth should ideally become part of your daily interaction with your canine friend. This should not be a chore for you or your dog but rather an enjoyable time that allows you to further the bond that you have with your pet.
By starting slowly and giving lots of praise, this daily bit of attention should be something that your dog starts to look forward to.
Remember, this should be fun for you and your dog, approach it as a game and be sure to praise your dog throughout the process. Do not restrain your dog too much, this just makes them struggle. Keep sessions short and positive.
The first challenge is to get your dog used to having things put in his mouth. Try dipping your finger in some tuna juice, chicken broth or some marmite in a bit of water and then letting your dog lick this off your finger. Then try rubbing your tasty finger gently over your dog's gums and teeth. After a few sessions your dog should start looking forward to this and should come running, tail wagging at the mention of the words "Tooth Time"
The next step is to wrap a small piece of gauze around your finger, dip this in some tasty liquid and gently rub the teeth in a circular motion. Remember to keep praising your dog. Do several sessions of this to ensure that your dog is comfortable with the texture of the gauze.
Once your canine is accustomed to the feel and taste of the gauze in his mouth, you can now start using a dog-specific toothbrush. Use an appropriately sized toothbrush for the size of your dog. Some dogs take a while to get used the bristly feeling of the brush so be prepared to spend a fair number of sessions on mastering this step. Let your dog lick something tasty off the brush so that he gets used to the texture.
The next step is to get your dog used to the toothpaste. Pet toothpastes are usually malt or poultry flavoured and most dogs love the taste. Let your dog lick some toothpaste off your finger and then apply some to the gums and teeth with your finger. Keep on telling him what a good dog he is.
Final step - a combo of toothbrush and toothpaste. Keep on praising and gently brush those teeth. For the first few sessions it's advisable to just clean the canines (the 4 long teeth near the front of the mouth). Concentrate on the gumline as this is where the most plaque tends to accumulate. Gradually increase the number of teeth that are being brushed. Try to brush once a day or at the very least 4 times a week.
Give yourself a pat on the back and a medal for good pet ownership. You're doing a great thing for your dog's future health and happiness.
Remember to use PetAlive Gumz-n-Teeth to keep those teeth strong and healthy.
Content supplied by the team at PetAlive | | | | | | Teaching appropriate Chewing Items | A puppy or dog chewing is as natural as breathing. We cannot teach dogs NOT to chew, we can only teach them what objects is acceptable to chew. Prevention and treatment of destructive chewing focus on management and educating the dog - to prevent your dog from chewing inappropriate items and to redirect your dog's natural chewing-urge to appropriate, acceptable and resilient chew toys.
A dog's mouth is somewhat analogous to the human hand as an investigative tool, and the healthy development of nervous and muscle tissue depend a lot on hearty chewing exercises. All owners should expect a certain amount of destruction from curiosity based or tension relieving oral tendencies from puppies. A puppy's urge to chew peaks between 4-6 months when they are teething. Chewing is an enjoyable and intrinsically reinforcing experience for puppies and adult dogs. Some dogs are more oral than others and some outgrow excessive chewing when the teething stage is over, but most dogs, even adults enjoys chewing.
Dogs can chew for many reasons: itchy gums when teething, to relieve anxiety and boredom frustration, as well as for entertainment. Just as some people bite their nails or smoke - dogs can release nervous tension by chewing to console themselves. Sometimes excessive chewing are symptoms of other underlying issues and these need to be addressed separately.
You need to teach your puppy at an early age as to what items are acceptable to chew and which are not, to prevent the dog from chewing inappropriate items as an adult dog.
In most households dogs sleep during the night and are left alone at home during the day with little or nothing to do. Dogs cannot go for walks when frustrated by four walls or go visit friends or go to the movies. What else is there to do, but to find something to chew to pass the long lonely hours. If the puppy or dog has not been taught from an early age as to what items are acceptable to chew, they will chew almost anything they can find. They have no concept that your pool pump, garden furniture, sprinkler system or plants has monetary value. If it's there - it can be chewed.
Today, almost most dogs are far removed from what they were originally bred for. Most breeds are working breeds and if not kept mentally and physically stimulated - you will end up with a dog that finds ways to entertain themselves and work off excess energy. Lonely dogs with nothing to do all day will investigate their garden environment and pick up interesting smells and investigate it with their mouths and this then leads to what we humans call 'destructive chewing'.
Dogs do not chew inappropriate items due to malice or spite because you have left him on his own - even if he 'looks' guilty when you come home. This 'guilty' appearance of ears down, head lowered, hind quarters tucked in and tail between the legs is nothing more than escape/avoidance behaviour. The dog displays this behaviour because in the past he has learnt when there is a chewed object and you are present it equals something aversive (punishment). This behaviour is then instinctive - to try and avoid or escape the impending punishment.
Punishment after the act teaches the dog absolutely nothing about the wrong behaviour itself. You can even show them the chewed object; the dog will not make the association between the act of chewing (the wrong object) with the punishment. (For more info on why we don't use punishment read 'Positive Punishment' on the 'About Us' page)
When you get your puppy…. For the rest of the article please visit www.dogsense.co.za/newslist.php
Article written by Claire Grobbelaar
DipCABT (Coape, UK) NOCN. CertCAB
Canine Behaviour Consultant and Clicker Trainer
Certified Tellington Touch Practitioner for dogs
www.dogsense.co.za
| | | | | | Dental health in pets | The most common ailments seen by vets in dogs and cats are those that affect their teeth and gums.
More than half of all pets suffer from gum disease, dental calculus or similar dental problems. Calculus is the brown build-up of plaque found extending downwards on the tooth from the gum line. Calculus is a haven for nasty bacteria which can have serious consequences for your pet’s general health, wreaking havoc on their system. These bacteria can not only cause abscesses and tooth loss but can cause problems elsewhere - even resulting in organ damage (as the bacteria are carried from the mouth through the bloodstream) and may lodge on the valves of the heart or collect in the kidneys.
All types of teeth and gum diseases can lead to serious health problems in pets.
Dogs and cats make much fuller use of their teeth than humans do. Our pets use their mouths and teeth as we use our hands – to ‘feel’ out their surroundings, carry objects and groom themselves.
For this reason, toothache, dental disease and loss of teeth can all have serious consequences for pets.
Damage to the teeth and gums in pets is permanent and irreversible - as it is in humans. What’s more – our pets can’t wear dentures! Therefore, the best thing you can do for your dog or cat’s dental health is to embark on a prevention program and look out for your pet’s teeth and gums before it’s too late.
Content supplied by PetAlive | | | | | | “The Puppy chews Prada”- Puppy Chewing! | Puppies chew and they have very sharp teeth! Every one who has ever owned a puppy can vouch for that! Puppies explore their world by putting things in their mouths. Puppies are also teething until they are about six months old, and teething usually creates some discomfort. Chewing not only facilitates teething, but also makes sore gums feel better. It is perfectly normal for a puppy to chew on the kids toys, furniture, shoes, shrubbery, irrigation systems and such, but these behaviours can be a problem for their human. Unfortunately your puppy won't magically "outgrow" these behaviours as he matures. You need to shape your puppy's behaviours and teach him which ones are acceptable and which aren't. Your puppy will, inevitably, chew up something you value. This is part of raising a puppy! You can, however, prevent most problems by taking certain precautions and managing the situation.
Start by puppy-proofing your house. Get down to the puppy’s level. YES, lie on the floor and look around you. Look for loose electrical wires, computer cords, open shoe cupboards, other cupboards containing poisons or anti freeze, low coffee tables and toy boxes. Anything puppy can get into or at, that could be hazardous. Put the rubbish bins out of reach and the filled rubbish bags up high. Encourage the children to pick up their toys and don't leave socks, shoes, eyeglasses, briefcases, cell phones or TV remote controls lying around within your puppy's reach.
If you catch your puppy chewing on something he shouldn't, interrupt the behaviour and offer him an acceptable chew toy instead and praise him lavishly when he takes the toy in his mouth. Don’t give your puppy your old shoes, socks or the kids old toys to chew on, he can’t discriminate between new and old, and will certainly chew on your new shoes, or the kids other toys if they are lying around. Make unacceptable chew items unpleasant to your puppy. Furniture and other items can be coated with Bitter Apple Spray, to make them unappealing.
Closely supervise your puppy. Don't give him the chance to go off by himself and get into trouble. Use baby gates, close doors or tether him to you with a long leash attached around your waist, so you can keep an eye on him. If you have to go out and leave your puppy behind, confine him to a small, safe area such as a closed in back yard or laundry room. You may also begin to crate train your puppy, but please remember that puppies under five months of age shouldn't be crated for longer than two hours at a time, as they may not be able to control their bladder and bowels longer than that.
Make sure your puppy is getting adequate physical activity. Puppies left alone in a yard don't play by themselves but can get up to loads of mischief. Take your puppy for walks, play games with him as often as possible. Have lots of appropriate chew toys for your puppy. Rotate these toys. Puppies like “new “ toys. Put out four or five toys for a few days, then pick those up and put out four or five different ones. Experiment with different kinds of dog toys. When you introduce a new toy to your puppy, watch him to make sure he won't tear it up and swallow the pieces. Look for the types of toys that can be stuffed with food, like the Kong toys. Put one of his daily meals inside a chew toy. This will help your puppy to learn how to deal with frustration, and to problem solve. It also focuses your puppy's chewing activities on those toys instead of on unacceptable objects. When your puppy is teething, try pouring some stock or soup into a Kong and freezing it. This will help to cool the gums whilst he gets relief by chewing.
If you discover a chewed item even minutes after your puppy has chewed it, you're too late to punish him. Dogs associate punishment with what they're doing at the time they're being punished. A puppy can't reason that, "I tore up those shoes an hour ago and that's why I'm being scolded now." We often think the puppy knows what he has done wrong because he runs and hides or because he "looks guilty." "Guilty looks" are canine submissive postures that dogs show when they're threatened. When you're angry and upset, the puppy feels threatened by your tone of voice, your body posture and your facial expression. Punishment after the act will not get rid of the undesirable behaviour, it will only show the puppy that when you are not there he can chew like a demon, but when you come home he must run away and hide. Punishment could provoke other undesirable behaviours like aggression, as well.
In most cases, destructive chewing by puppies is nothing more than normal puppy behaviour. Give your puppy plenty of "people time." He can only learn the rules of your house when he's with you
Article written by Niki Elliott
Guild Certified TTouch Practitioner 2 for Companion Animals
Puppy Classes/Obedience Classes/Clicker classes for Dogs & Cats, Kitten Habituation Classes.
e-mai: niki@thinkingpets.com website: www.ttouch.co.za/balance or www.thinkingpets.com
+27 11 706 2320 +27 11 706 0156
082 451 0433 Practice 082 049 9209
ThinkingPets Behaviour Practice
33 Devonshire Ave Bryanston | | | | | | Having a litter, for the children? | These words always make my heart sink. Why? you ask. What better way to teach our children the facts of life than letting them see the process at first hand in their own home. While the idea of letting your cat or dog have kittens or puppies, so the children can learn, has the right intentions behind it, there are many holes in the plan.
What can go wrong?
Your children probably won’t see the mating, especially if it’s a cat. If they do, they may get a bad impression of sex, as it often seems painful and can involve aggressive behaviour.
Seeing a pregnant animal is very like seeing a pregnant human, so there is nothing really new about this for most children.
Your children probably won’t see the birth, as this usually occurs at night and owners are often not even aware of it. If the birth goes wrong, children could be frightened by emergency procedures or even the death of your pet.
If you can’t find homes for all the puppies or kittens, they may end up on “death row” with all the other animals at shelters. Is this a lesson you want your children to learn from?
If you do find a home for every puppy or kitten, they may be homes that would otherwise have taken pets that were in a rescue shelter, thus depriving ‘disadvantaged’ animals homes.
How will you check out the homes your special pet’s offspring go to? How will you know they are good homes?
What are the alternatives?
Find a registered breeder (Kennel Union of SA for dogs, SA Cat Council for cats) and ask if you can allow your children to visit the animals before and after the birth, and to see the development of the pups or kittens. Bear in mind that a mother with a litter is very sensitive and children may not be allowed to go too close, make a noise or touch them in the first few days.
Buy a good book about the facts of life, whether human or animal. There are plenty in your local library.
Find a good documentary or two about the “birds and the bees”. Again, there may be some at the library.
Take your children to visit an animal rescue shelter near you. Teach them about being humane and thinking about other animals, not just your own. Teach them about getting pets sterilised so that they do not contribute to the excessive number of puppies and kittens needing good homes.
Reece and his sterilised dog, Swift.
Is letting your dog or cat have a litter going to benefit the animal, or is it purely for you own selfish purpose? Hundreds of dogs and cats are euthanased each week in South Africa because there are not enough good homes for them all. By allowing your pet to breed and homing the offspring yourselves you may be depriving other, less fortunate, animals of homes – the ones that roam the streets or get stuck in rescue shelters. Parents, have your dogs and cats sterilised BEFORE they have a litter (before 6 months of age, earlier if possible). Your pet's personality will not change if it is sterilised. Don't contribute to the population of unwanted puppies and kittens.
STERILISE - SAVE LIVES!
By Karen Gray-Kilfoil (Animal Behaviourist & Humane Educator)
and Dr Yvonne Robson (Veterinarian at Sunnydale Animal Sterilisation and Health Association - SASHA)
© Copyright 2010 | | | | | | Fireworks and your pet | On the 5th of November, people around the world gather to celebrate Guy Fawkes with an array of sparklers and fireworks. Fantastic for kids and adults alike, but it’s a night of hell for many of our furry friends. The loud bangs scare them into darting off and seeking shelter where they feel safe and secure. This often means them escaping from your property, getting lost, or being accidentally killed as they run in front of cars.
There are a few things that you can do to help ease their stress:
• If possible, keep your pets indoors on the 5th November with the curtains closed (try to keep dogs away from windows; some frightened dogs have hurt themselves jumping through a window). Put the TV or radio on to provide some noise distraction.
• Get your cat a kitty cave, cuddle coil or even his carrier – these create areas that he can hide in.
• If you know that your dog will become very stressed during the evening, chat to your vet about starting him on a calming supplement (such as Nutureline Calm Dog or Doggi Deli Mello Mutts) a few weeks in advance and about using Rescue Remedy or a sedative/tranquilizer on the night.
• Take your dog for a walk and feed your pets and provide ample water prior to the fireworks starting.
• Don’t fuss over your pets during the fireworks. Stay composed and talk calmly to them, but show them that there is nothing to be frightened off.
• You can also try introducing loud noises slowly for your dog to get used to – play a tape of thunder or bangs at low levels and slowly increase the volume over a period of time. Start with short sessions, praising your dog whenever he stays calm during the bangs. This does take patience and time, chat to your animal behavourist for more details.
Don’t forget:
• Ensure that your cat and dog have proper identification tags or microchips and ensure that your information is up to date. Your cat’s collar must have an elastic insert.
• Dogs and cats are not the only ones to become stressed, keep an eye on your pet birds and small animals too and bring them inside if possible.
These are just a few ideas to help your pet during the evening. Please chat to your vet before starting any supplement or training program.
| | | | | | Pets as Christmas gifts - a good idea or not? | It’s the day before Christmas and you haven’t yet finished your gift shopping. Your kids still need that “something special”. You walk past a pet shop and there’s this cute little puppy or kitten staring up at you, just begging to be adopted. Logic argues that a pet would teach responsibility, loyalty, commitment or even compassion. All true, and so much more, so doesn’t that make them the perfect Christmas present?
“Not at all”, says Tracy Ramsay, co-owner of South Africa’s largest online pet shop, A Pet’s Life. “While owning a pet does teach children a range of values, pets need to be adopted at the right time for the right reasons.” Tracy argues that buying a pet on impulse and giving it as a surprise gift for Christmas may open the pet up to be neglected. “It sounds harsh, but what happens to the puppy when the responsibility actually sets in – puppies chew things, they need house training, they need attention? What happens when the cuteness factor decreases? Will he be relegated to the garden, never to be played with or walked?”.
Tracy puts forth a compelling argument against pets as presents for your children. “When you find a new home for your Christmas present pet, what life lesson have your children learnt – that pets are disposable. When the novelty wears off, or the responsibility gets too much, you can just move on to the next cool thing? That’s not a value we should be instilling into our children”.
There are other reasons why pets don’t make great surprise presents. “What if the recipient doesn’t want the pet, or wanted a completely different pet. You are opening up the animal to neglect straight away”.
“On top of all of that”, adds Kirsten Lynch, also from A Pet’s Life, “Christmas is the wrong time for introducing a new puppy or kitten to a family. They need a calm environment when first brought home. The frantic activity surrounding the festive season, with many different visitors, may stress out or frighten a puppy or kitten.”
Kirsten is quick to add that there are a huge number of pets that need loving homes, “Pets are a fantastic way to teach things like responsibility and help build self-esteem and self-worth. We are not saying don’t buy pets for your children, quite the opposite, we would just like to ensure that pet’s are not adopted on impulse – but if the decision is thought through, if the children are the right age to take on the responsibility of pet ownership, if your family is ready for the financial part of pet ownership, if the time is right, then please visit your local shelter or SPCA and adopt a pet.”
| | | | | | Sterilisation - Why it's so important | Having a litter, for the children¡K¡K
These words always make my heart sink. Why? you ask. What better way to teach our children the facts of life than letting them see the process at first hand in their own home.
While the idea of letting your cat or dog have kittens or puppies, so the children can learn, has the right intentions behind it, there are many holes in the plan.
What can go wrong?
ƒæ Your children probably won¡¦t see the mating, especially if it¡¦s a cat. If they do, they may get a bad impression of sex, as it often seems painful and can involve aggressive behaviour.
ľ Seeing a pregnant animal is very like seeing a pregnant human, so there is nothing really new about this for most children.
ƒæ Your children probably won¡¦t see the birth, as this usually occurs at night and owners are often not even aware of it. If the birth goes wrong, children could be frightened by emergency procedures or even the death of your pet.
ƒæ If you can¡¦t find homes for all the puppies or kittens, they may end up on ¡§death row¡¨ with all the other animals at shelters. Is this a lesson you want your children to learn from?
ƒæ If you do find a home for every puppy or kitten, they may be homes that would otherwise have taken pets that were in a rescue shelter, thus depriving ¡¥disadvantaged¡¦ animals homes.
ƒæ How will you check out the homes your special pet¡¦s offspring go to? How will you know they are good homes?
What are the alternatives?
ľ Find a registered breeder (Kennel Union of SA) and ask if you can allow your children to visit the animals before and after the birth, and to see the development of the pups or kittens. Bear in mind that a mother with a litter is very sensitive and children may not be allowed to go too close, make a noise or touch them in the first few days.
ľ Buy a good book about the facts of life, whether human or animal. There are plenty in your local library.
ƒæ Find a good documentary or two about the ¡§birds and the bees¡¨. Again, there may be some at the library.
ľ Take your children to visit an animal rescue shelter near you. Teach them about being humane and thinking about other animals, not just your own. Teach them about getting pets sterilised so that they do not contribute to the excessive number of puppies and kittens needing good homes.
Is letting your dog or cat have a litter going to benefit the animal, or is it purely for you own selfish purpose?
Hundreds of dogs and cats are euthanased each week in South Africa because there are not enough good homes for them all. By allowing your pet to breed and homing the offspring yourselves you may be depriving other, less fortunate, animals of homes ¡V the ones that roam the streets or get stuck in rescue shelters.
Parents, have your dogs and cats sterilised BEFORE they have a litter (before 6 months of age, earlier if possible). Your pet's personality will not change if it is sterilised. Don't contribute to the population of unwanted puppies and kittens.
STERILISE - SAVE LIVES!
By Karen Gray-Kilfoil (Animal Behaviourist & Humane Educator)
and Dr Yvonne Robson (Veterinarian at Sunnydale Animal Sterilisation and Health Association - SASHA)
| | | | | | So you want a dog? Advice from the NSPCA. | It’s not like going out and choosing a CD. It’s not like picking out an ideal birthday gift either that can be switched off and packed away when the novelty has worn off. It’s not like getting a garment that can be handed to the local charity bargain shop when it’s a few years old and just doesn’t suit your lifestyle any more: - although that’s what many people effectively do.
Here’s our guide to adopting a dog. We acknowledge with genuine appreciation the input from the Kennel Union of South Africa (KUSA) and reiterate what we have said on many previous occasions.
The only pet adoption routes recommended are through a registered and reputable animal welfare organisation (that STERILISES each and every adopted pet) or through a registered and reputable breeder.
PUREBRED, CROSS BRED OR SPCA SPECIAL? Adopting a purebred dog means that you will know how big the puppy will grow, what kind of coat it will have, the general temperament to expect etc. But there is no guarantee you will have the world’s best specimen. Any dog may fall prey to some disease or have social problems although most of the latter are caused by inadequate training and irresponsible ownership.
With a purebred dog, a responsible breeder will provide you with sight of the registration papers of the mother and perhaps also the father, showing the ancestry. If the puppy has been registered, you will be able to get a Registration Certificate and Certified Three Generation Pedigree as issued to the breeder by the Kennel Union of Southern Africa.
A “crossbred” dog is the result of the mating of two distinct recognised breeds (for example, the mother a Border Collie and the father a Labrador). The crossbred puppy may take the characteristics of either or both parents. You may have a rough idea of how your puppy may grow but there is no guarantee as to size, coat or anything else.
“An SPCA Special” is often taken to mean a mongrel or a “brak” but SPCAs often have purebred dogs available for adoption. Purebred or not, each dog or puppy adopted from an SPCA must be sterilised. If you take your definition of an SPCA “special” to be a mongrel, then the literal definition is a dog born of parents which already have a mixture of breeds. Mongrels can make ideal pets but, no-one can guarantee anything about size, temperament or coat: - it depends which breeds are dominant.
MALE OR FEMALE?
This decision falls away if the dog or puppy is sterilised, regardless of whether it is male or female. Bitches come into heat, attract males for miles around and can be a nuisance to you as well as the neighbours. We all know that unneutered males wander – or try to if there is a sniff of a bitch on heat.
AND OTHER DECISIONS
It isn’t unreasonable to make a decision relating to the size of the dog. Don’t forget that even within breeds, sizes vary so (measuring from the shoulder) Standard Poodles can be over 38cm, Miniature Poodles between 28cm and 38cm and the smallest, Toy Poodles coming in at 28cm and under.
Then bear in mind that the tallest breed of dog is the Irish Wolfhound at around 81cm. The smallest is the Chihuahua at between 13,5 and 18cm. Libraries and breed clubs are wonderful sources of additional information.
But don’t forget that if you decide to adopt a cross-bred Great Dane at your local SPCA, you will be looking at a rather a large dog when the puppy grows to full adulthood!
Adoption fees vary from SPCA to SPCA depending on what is included (sterilisation is ALWAYS included and is compulsory). Some include a collar and disc, others microchip identification etc.
Prices of purebred dogs vary and may also depend on availability or background. A Bill of Sale and any conditions attached to the sale should be obtained in writing.
There have been cases of people who spent hundreds, if not thousands of Rands on purchasing a cuddly puppy with no receipts or anything, and then they wonder what to do if anything goes wrong.
Many “breeds” of dog are advertised on the Internet at lower prices (can’t believe we are talking about “advertising” and “prices” in relation to dogs) than those of reputable breeders. Be cautious, to say the least. Online shopping may be the norm now but it is certainly not recommended for the adoption of pets. Complaints about such purchases continue to proliferate, including the common complaint that the dog was not purebred at all.
Words of warning also go out in relation to gimmicks such as advertising “Labradoodles” as if this was a recognised breed and asking high prices. Many a time, people are fooled and find themselves paying way over the odds for the progeny of an unplanned mating between a Labrador Retriever and a poodle.
AND IF YOU DO GO THE “PUREBRED” ROUTE – Some questions to ask the breeder which anyone reputable will answer without hesitation and give accurate, informed answers:
• What are the upsides and downsides of this breed? (all breeds have downsides)
• How often are puppies available? (It takes devotion to breed dogs successfully and so be cautious of any breeder who always seems to have puppies available or on the way)
• What are the genetic problems of this breed? (No breed is free from genetic problems)
• Can I see where the puppies were raised?
• May I see the mother and her registration papers?
• Do you provide any written health guarantee on a puppy and over what period of time?
• Do you provide any written offer of compensation against hereditary defects?
• Do you provide a record of vaccinations?
• Do you provide a diet sheet for any puppy I might purchase?
• Could you provide me with the names of any previous puppy buyers from whom I might obtain a written reference?
And finally, if you decide to go this route, two questions to ask yourself: -
• Is the breeder caring and friendly?
• Is this a breeder with whom I want to deal and with whom I can have rapport?
Article kindly supplied to A Pet's Life by NSPCA. | | | | | | WHERE TO START? | | Try answering the questions below and if you have answered “yes” to all of them, you then need to make a decision on what kind of dog to adopt: - * Will there be someone at home to give sufficient quality time to your dog? * Have you sufficient space for a dog? * Does your lease / complex allow you to keep a dog? • Are you prepared to exercise your dog sufficiently? • Is there open space either near your home or that you are prepared to drive to where you are allowed to exercise your dog if your grounds are not big enough? • Can you afford veterinary fees? • Are you prepared to give up time to ensure that your dog has the necessary training to socialise and to learn to obey basic commands like “sit” or “stay”? • Do you know that some types of dog are more noisy or more energetic than others? • If you decide to adopt a puppy, are you prepared for some damage in your home (“toileting” accidents or chewing items, for example) • Have you the time to groom a dog properly or can you afford grooming fees/ • Can you afford to feed your dog properly – and we do mean “properly” – not makeshift diets, the cheapest food available of left-overs! • Do you appreciate that dogs, like people, grow old and may need special care and attention later in their lives? • If you cannot leave your dog with responsible relatives or friends when you go on holiday, can you afford the cost of boarding kennels? • Are you prepared to love and care for a dog all its life, which is often more than ten years: - and not just when it is a cuddly puppy? | | | | | | Why should my dog or cat have a collar and lead? | | It is advisable that your pets be easily identified - remember even indoor cats can escape. There are a wide range of identification tags available, that are easily attached to your pets collar. Whenever you are in a public place or near traffic, your dog should be on a lead for his and other people’s safety. A variety of different length leads are essential tools in a puppy training programme. Which collar, which lead? When choosing a collar for your dog, measure the widest part of the neck and add two inches. A correctly fitting collar should allow two fingers between the collar and the dog’s neck. Cat collars should be designed to break away if the collar gets caught on something. Reflective ones are also advised if your cat is out after dark. Check carefully under the collar on a regular basis for redness or hair loss caused by an ill-fitting collar. Remember that puppies and kittens grow fast and their collars will need adjusting or replacing. Cat collars should fit snugly, but should allow one finger to be easily fitted between collar and neck. Lightweight nylon collars are good for cats, puppies and small dogs. Braided nylon collars are more durable and can be worn by larger dogs. Choke or check chains should be used only as training tools under supervision, not as regular collars. It is important that these are fitted correctly. Ask your dog trainer for advice. You may require several leads of different lengths; traffic lead (18-24”); everyday lead (48”); training lead (72”). Flexi or Flipy leads are good for long country walks and allow you to set the length of the lead for other situations. These should not be used along roads or pavements. Harnesses Cats and rabbits can be taught to walk on a lead, but it is advisable to attach them to a harness rather than a collar. Harnesses are also better than collars for very small dog breeds such as Yorkies or Chihauhuas. Travel harnesses attach to car seat belts to control and protect your dog during journeys. With thanks to Marltons for Content | | | | | | Separating dog fights:
(part 2) | Obviously it's better to prevent fights before they start. If there's any tension between the dogs try walking away from the scene and distracting one dog by calling in a high-pitched happy voice or using some other noise, toy or food.
Don¦t stare at the dogs, scream or wait for something to happen: move smoothly away from the dogs.
If there is a fight and you feel you need to intervene, remember that your dogs may think you are joining in and increase the pace of the fight. Sometimes a handy water pistol or even mace may be useful, but these sometimes make the dogs even more aggressive.
The most effective ways of separating a fight are:
- Get as far away as possible from the dogs and wait for the fight to end. This is the most sensible, as you are not going to get bitten. With the exception of fighting breeds this usually has the effect of shortening the duration of the fight, especially if you distract one with an attractive noise, like banging a food bowl.
- Spray the dogs with the hose or empty a bucket of water over them. This is good because it is harmless to the dogs and you don't have to get too close.
- If there are two of you, you could try each pulling one dogs back legs. Be careful of the sharp end (teeth!) as it may be turned on you. You may also damage your dogs' legs.
- Forcing a door or gate between them or throwing them into the swimming pool is another favourite, but requires some skill and strength. However this may be the only way to separate a serious fight, as they have to release the bite to breathe.
- your finger up your dog's anus. This is too disgusting for most people to even consider, but it apparently works!
Owners must remember that dogs can and have killed other dogs, so consider the risks before embarking on a behaviour modification program.
Sometimes it's kinder and safer to re-home one dog, or keep them permanently separated. Not all conflicts can be solved in the same way.
By Karen Gray-Kilfoil
ANIMAL BEHAVIOURIST
& HUMANE EDUCATOR
Tel/Fax: 021 785 5811
Email: kargray@telkomsa.net
| | | | | | Re-introducing dogs: (Part3) | Once the dogs have been separated for any length of time it is quite tricky re-introducing them and you may need an animal behaviourist to help. This should be done on neutral territory (like a park) on long loose leads, possibly using head harnesses. Correct body language must be implemented by the owners and any aggression should not be punished or reprimanded at all. Sometimes it is necessary to re-introduce them over a few days or weeks, while alternating the areas where they are kept at home (to prevent territorial aggression).
By Karen Gray-Kilfoil
ANIMAL BEHAVIOURIST
& HUMANE EDUCATOR
Tel/Fax: 021 785 5811
Email: kargray@telkomsa.net
| | | | | | Dog Fights at Home (part 1): | When two dogs in the same household start fighting regularly it is stressful for both owners and dogs, which perpetuates the problem as stress is often an underlying cause to begin with.
What causes dogs in the same home to fight? Some common causes:
What causes dogs in the same home to fight? Some common causes:
ƒá Breeds: Certain breeds are more likely to fight, even if they¡¦re family members of opposite sexes. All terriers, especially Staffordshire and Pit Bull Terriers, fit into this category. If you can help it don¡¦t own two of these dogs together.
ƒá Hormones: Too much testosterone (entire males) can cause aggression to flare more easily in an attempt to be macho. Owning two entire males should be avoided. Rather castrate the youngest, smallest, less assertive one. A bitch in season (on heat), in whelp (pregnant) or with pups may be more unpredictable and aggressive. A bitch in season may cause other more senior dogs to be aggressive towards her as she represents a threat to their status in the ¡§pack¡¨. Spaying bitches before the first heat is a good idea.
ƒá Disciplining puppies: Older dogs often show younger ones who¡¦s boss by growling, biting (usually gently) or pinning them to the ground. Although this is quite normal and should be ignored, often owners are afraid that their pup will be hurt and intervene, making things worse. Keep out of these kinds of squabbles as much as possible, within reason. The older dog should never be reprimanded or punished.
ƒá Juvenile delinquent dogs: Young dogs between the ages of six and 18 months are most likely to challenge other dogs in the household, especially if they are terriers or large guard dog breeds (like Boerboels and Rottweilers). Usually this is related to possessiveness and attention-seeking. This is a phase which is often difficult to deal with, but often doesn¡¦t result in any blood lost if handled correctly. Neutering, modifying the relationships between owners and dogs and using correct calming body language helps to widen the gaps between fights.
ƒá Elderly and sickly dogs: Often elderly or sickly dogs are picked on by younger dogs. This is probably due to the law of the jungle and there isn¡¦t much that can be done, other than treating the sickly dog or separating them permanently.
ƒá Possessiveness: Food, toys or attention may be a trigger for a dog fight, but there¡¦s always an underlying cause, such as high stress levels and over-attachment to an owner. The underlying causes need to be addressed. At the same time dogs can be fed separately, not given toys except when separated, and given attention separately and calmly.
ć Excitement and frustration: Often dogs attack each other when another dog is passing the gate, when play gets too rough or when visitors arrive.
ƒá High stress levels: Dogs respond to stressful situations just as much as people and often they reflect their owners¡¦ stress. Moving house, having a baby, introducing a new pet or person into the household, renovating the house, death and illness often affect pets¡¦ behaviour and health. Anxiety is often increased when one or both dogs become over-attached to one person. A dog can be insecure of his own status if his owner is too indulgent and allows the dog to manipulate him too much. Relieving stress can involve more regular walks, correct touch, toys, calm play and positive reinforcement training.
Usually there is a combination of possible causes so all solutions should be considered together.
By Karen Gray-Kilfoil
ANIMAL BEHAVIOURIST
& HUMANE EDUCATOR
Tel/Fax: 021 785 5811
Email: kargray@telkomsa.net
| | | | |
| | CATS | | | | Brushing Your Cat's Teeth | The 5 Basic Steps...
Brushing your cat's teeth should ideally become part of your daily interaction with your feline friend. This should not be a chore for you or your cat but rather an enjoyable time that allows you to further the bond that you have with your pet.
By starting slowly and giving lots of praise, this daily bit of attention should be something that your cat starts to look forward to.
Remember, this should be fun for you and your cat, approach it as a game and be sure to praise your kitty throughout the process. Do not restrain your cat too much, this just makes them struggle. Keep sessions short and positive.
The first challenge is to get your cat used to having things put in her mouth. Try dipping your finger in some tuna juice, chicken broth or some marmite in a bit of water and then letting your cat lick this off your finger. Then try rubbing your tasty finger gently over your cat's gums and teeth. After a few sessions your cat should start looking forward to this and should come running at the mention of the words "Tooth Time"
The next step is to wrap a small piece of gauze around your finger, dip this in some tasty liquid and gently rub the teeth in a circular motion. Remember to keep praising your kitty. Do several sessions of this to ensure that your cat is comfortable with the texture of the gauze.
Once your feline is accustomed to the feel and taste of the gauze in her mouth, you can now start using a cat-specific toothbrush. Some cats take a while to get used the bristly feeling of the brush so be prepared to spend a fair amount of sessions on mastering this step. Let your cat lick something tasty off the brush so that she gets used to the texture.
The next step is to get kitty used to the toothpaste. Pet toothpastes are usually malt or poultry flavoured and most cats love the taste. Let your cat lick some toothpaste off your finger and then apply some to the gums and teeth with your finger. Keep on telling her what a good kitty she is.
Final step - a combo of toothbrush and toothpaste. Keep on praising and gently brush those teeth. For the first few sessions it's advisable to just clean the canines (the 4 long teeth near the front of the mouth). Concentrate on the gumline as this is where the most plaque tends to accumulate. Gradually increase the number of teeth that are being brushed. Try to brush once a day or at the very least 4 times a week.
Give yourself a pat on the back and a medal for good pet ownership. You're doing a great thing for your cat's future health and happiness!
Remember to use PetAlive Gumz-n-Teeth to keep those teeth strong and healthy!
Content supplied by the team from PetAlive | | | | | | A guideline to a safe move with your cat | We need to remember that cats are territorial and the core of this territory (usually the house and garden) is where he expects to feel the safest. Cats promote this feeling of safety further by spreading their scent around the territory. For example spraying around the perimeter of the garden and rubbing and clawing on items in the home.
Spreading his scent provides familiarity and safety and is a great way to avoid confrontation with other neighbourhood cats. The problem with moving house is, all this is absent in the new home. However, don't leave it until the new house to start. Setting cats up for a stress-free move should start during packing of the original home.
Before the Move:
Identify the room your cat feels most comfortable and relaxed - which room does he spend most of his time in?
Pack up this room last.
While you are packing up other rooms, keep your cat in his 'happy room' with all his needs being met - minimum of 2 litter trays, choice of food, fresh water, choice of sleeping places at various heights, warmth and toys etc. Also, keep the basket that he will be transferred in open and cosy in this room too.
While in his 'happy room' stroke your cat with a clean cloth so his scent from his face and side transfer to the cloth and keep in a plastic bag.
During breaks from packing he can be let out and you can spend some quality time with him. However, if strangers have been walking through the house and new items/scents have been brought in (such as boxes, covers clean carpets etc), rub the 'new' items with the cloth so his familiar scent will be on them before giving him access to the rest of the house again.
The Move:
Don't wash any of his bedding before the move and have items that carry his scent ready to use in the new home such as bedding and resting places.
Before you set off, stroke your cat with a couple of clean cloths, capturing his facial and flank scent and store in a plastic bag ready to use in your new home.
Transport him in the basket you kept with him in his 'happy room' with a familiar blanket.
Place a pinch of Happy Cat in the basket. This will help keep him relaxed during the trip.
When you get to your new home, prepare a quiet warm room. The aim is to enable him to act out his true nature to the best of his ability with what we have. Therefore, provide, litter trays (keep some of old litter in tray), food, water and bedding from your previous home etc. Provide resting places of varying heights and hideaways with boxes or cupboards etc.
Use the cloths to transfer his scent to other objects/furniture in the room.
Place a pinch of Happy Cat on the floor near to where you will let him out of the basket
Bring your cat into the room, close the door and quietly and gently open the basket allowing your cat to exit in his own time
Allow your cat to explore the room.
Keep basket in the room so he can return to it any time.
When you cat shows signs of being relaxed - such as eating, resting, being approachable and playful etc, he can explore another room of the house. However, never block access to the original room, as this will be his new 'happy room' where he is likely to choose to retreat to should he ever feel unsure. Also, always transfer his scent onto furniture and doorways with the cloths before introducing him to a new room
Again, when relaxed, he can explore another one or two rooms.
This could all take a few hours or a couple of days so be patient
Allow your cat to get used to his new home in peace and ensure he is relaxed in the house before letting him explore the outside
Happy Cat can be used up to 3 times a day to help relax his body and mind during this change.
Words of wisdom:
When exploring cats tend to follow a 'star' shape - moving into the new environment from his original 'happy place' (which could initially be the basket he travelled in). If he encounters anything he is unsure about, he will retreat to this place.
Being patient and ensuring a proper introduction to his new territory will reduce stress and chances of problems
Article written, with our thanks, by Cara from Happiness Is
Cara Williams M.A. (UCT)
HAPPINESS IS
Good . Green . Beautiful
tel: 07 37 47 1119
email: cara@happinessis.co.za
web: www.happinessis.co.za | | | | |
| | FISH | | | | Setting up a new aquarium | A fresh water aquarium is easy to look after, inexpensive to run and fun to watch.
Recent research suggests that watching fish in an aquarium can actually reduce stress and tension! By taking time in setting up your new aquarium it will result in your fish being healthier and provide many years of trouble free fish keeping.
Position your aquarium near to a mains power supply and out of direct sunlight, which encourages algae growth, out of draughts and out of the reach of small children or pets. Remember your tank will be heavy when full of water so if you are not using an aquarium stand make sure it is positioned on a strong flat surface. It can be useful to pace your tank on polystyrene tiles which even out slight irregularities in the surface. Buying your equipment It is advisable to purchase a good quality glass aquarium with hood and condensation tray, which prevents condensation reaching your light and reduces evaporation.
Your aquarium will require a filter, an air pump and fluorescent light, with the addition of a heater for keeping tropical fish.
Filter: The filter cleans the water by removing the waste solids that would otherwise break down and pollute the water. In addition it adds oxygen to the water which is required to help fish breathe. It does this by breaking the water surface when it returns the filtered water into the tank.
Air Pump: The air pump provides additional oxygen into the tank and by using an airstone or curtain you can circulate the oxygen through the tank.
Light: A light provides a day and night environment for your fish and the fluorescent light emits less heat whilst providing the correct light for your fish and plants.
Heater: The aquarium heater thermostat allows you to maintain a constant water temperature, of around 25 degrees Celcius which is required to keep tropical fish. It is advisable to purchase a thermometer with which you can check the temperature. The basic equipment varies in power depending on the size of your tank.
Gravel: The gravel covers the base of the tank and anchors down your plants. It is the initial part of your tank decoration and comes in a range of colours.
Plants: You can use live or plastic plants or a combination of both to decorate your aquarium. A variety of species are available which offers a large choice of size and colour.
Decoration: To complete your decoration a range of both natural wood and rocks are available, in addition to a wide selection of ornaments which allow you to personalise your own tank.
De-chlorinator: Tap water is supplied ready for us to drink and regularly contains chlorine. Fish benefit from not having chlorine in their water, so a de-chlorinator such as tetra aquasafe is recomended to improve the water quality of your aquarium.
Water Test Kits: The water in your tank provides the total living environment for your fish and is the air they breathe. Test kits will allow you to easily monitor the eater quality and provide the best conditions for your fish to thrive.
Installing your aquarium: Once you have all the necessary equipment you can set up your aquarium following these basic steps: - Wash out your new tank with warm water and place in its intended position. Remember to keep it out of direct sunlight, away from draughts and out of reach of small children or pets.
- Wash the gravel in cool, clean water. Do not use soap or detergents. Just water.
- If you are using an under gravel filter fit it in the bottom of the tank. Cover the bottom of the tank with gravel to a depth of 8cm at the rear sloping to 4cm at the front. This is not only for decorative purposes - it allows any waste to accumulate at the front where it is easily removed.
- Fit your heating, lighting, aeration and filtration equipment following the manufacturer's instructions carefully.
- Half fill your tank with cold water causing the minimum disturbance to the gravel bed. One method is to lay a piece of polythene, or plastic bag, on the gravel and place a bowl on top. Pour the water into the bowl so that it flows over the side onto the polythene.
- Add your plants and decorations making sure they have been thoroughly washed and rinsed in clean water. Arrange your taller plants at the rear of the tank with the smaller ones at the front to create more depth.
- Fill the tank to within an inch of the top and add the de-chlorinator.
- Switch on the heater, air pump and filter and let the aquarium run for at least a week. After this period test your water before introducing fish.
Introducing your fish: It is important to gradually introduce fish over a number of weeks and not to overstock your aquarium. There are many fish to choose from. Your fish will be packed in a plastic bag when you purchase them, and should not be kept in this for more than three hours. Care should be taken in transporting them and they should not be allowed to get too hot or too cold. When you get them home float the bag in your tank for about twenty minutes, to allow the water temperatures to equalise and reduce stress, before releasing the fish into the water. The fish may be nervous and hide for a period of time. Let them settle down for a few hours before feeding.
Feeding and health care: There are a number of fish foods available in flake or pellet form which offer a complete balanced diet containing all the nutrients your fish requires to stay healthy. Feed your fish twice a day offering just enough food that is consumed within a few minutes. Start with a small amount and adjust accordingly. Overfeeding will pollute the water; ensure any excess food left after feeding is netted out and removed.
Maintaining the water quality is the most important factor in keeping your fish healthy.
Check the water regularly and every few weeks carry out a partial water change. This means siphoning 10-20% of the water out of the tank and replacing it with new water which has been de-chlorinated. By providing your fish with good quality water, ensuring the tank is properly filtered, correct feeding and maintaining a clean aquarium your fish should remain healthy. If you observe any changes in behaviour or unusual spots or markings on your fish they may need treatment. Content reproduced with thanks to Marltons | | | | | | Keeping Goldfish | | Goldfish are freshwater fish whose ancestors come from Asia. They live in cold water and are one of the hardiest of fish which make them easy to look after, and a good first pet for young children to learn about caring for a pet. Where do they like to live? A single goldfish may be kept in an unfiltered bowl which will require a weekly 30% water change to keep the water fresh. Goldfish need oxygen in the water to breathe and this enters through the surface of the water. A goldfish bowl will only have enough surface area to pride oxygen for one fish. As a general rule you will need 4.5 litres of water for each small goldfish. A Tank with some filtration will enable you to keep the water quality better creating a healthier environment for your fish and allow you to keep several fish in a community. Setting up their new home Wash out your bowl or tank with warm water and position out of direct sunlight or draughts in a room where the temperature is likely to remain fairly constant and out of the reach of small children and pets. Wash any gravel, plants and ornaments you are going to use to dress the bowl or tank. Fill your bowl with water adding a de-chlorinator such as tetra aqusafe for goldfish to remove any chlorine from the tap water. Introducing your fish Prepare your bowl or tank before buying your fish so they will be in their plastic travel bag for a shorter time. Float the bag in the water for twenty minutes before releasing the fish into your bowl or tank. Feeding and health care There are a number of fish foods available in flake or pellet form such as the TetraFin range of foods for goldfish, which offer a complete balanced diet containing all the nutrients your fish requires to stay healthy. Feed your fish twice a day, sprinkling a few flakes, or pellets, on the water. If they are eaten within a few minutes give a little more, once they have stopped feeding remove any uneaten food with a net. The water quality should be maintained by regular partial water changes, even if the tank is filtered, to keep the water fresh, always using a de-chlorinator in any new water introduced. Goldfish are usually healthy and trouble free and will be bright-eyed, active and have a shiny appearance. If you notice any changes in behaviour, sluggish movement or unusual spots or markings or your fish they may need some treatment. Content reprinted with thanks to Marltons | | | | |
| | BIRDS | | | | KEEPING A CAGED BIRD | | Choosing a bird Cockatiels, budgerigars, canaries and finches are fairly easy to keep. Parrots and parakeets require larger cages and are more difficult to handle. Preferably try and buy a hand reared parrot and continue to feed it by hand. This helps the bonding process between you and your pet. Choosing a cage Buy the biggest cage you can afford or have space for. Your bird must have room to stretch his wings and fly from perch to perch, or climb and play. The cage should have several good perches of different thicknesses to allow your bird to exercise his feet. Select a cage with bars close enough together to prevent him putting his head through. Climbers like cages with horizontal bars while flyers like vertical bars. Detachable tops and bottoms make the cage easier to clean. Place the cage well out of the way of cats and dogs, where there is plenty of light, preferably up high by a wall. Fresh air is important, but not draughts and direct sunlight is all right provided there is some shade. Birds are social animals, so if you are keeping one bird on his own, place the cage in a room where you or the family regularly come and go. Feeding A quality, prepared seed mix fortified with vitamins and minerals will provide a balanced diet for your bird and give it the best chance of a long, healthy life. A poorly balanced diet may cause obesity and a shortened lifespan. Feed just enough seed mix for your bird to consume entirely in one day. The seed mix can be supplemented by small amounts of cooked maize, peas and beans. Orange, Apple, honey seed-bars and millet spray make good treats. Never feed treats containing caffeine or chocolate. Cuttlebones are popular and provide a good source of calcium and help keep your bird's beak worn down. When introducing your bird to new foods, do so gradually over 7-14 days as sudden changes of diet can cause stomach upsets. It is important to be sure the bird is eating the new food and not just pushing it around looking for the old food. If he is not eating he may become listless or hyperactive, he may sit with fluffed up feathers on the cage bottom and may have loose droppings. If these signs persist, reintroduce the old food and if he does not start eating again, consult your vet. There must always be a supply of clean fresh water from a container and a supply of grit which birds require to digest their food. Keeping your bird healthy Get to know your bird's normal appearances and physical build. Feel his breastbone and feathers regularly. Watch his daily routine so you will notice if he is unusually still, excessively active, drinking too much water, not eating, breathing abnormally or if his feathers are ruffles. His droppings should not be watery. Droppings on the cage floor should be removed daily and the cage should be completely cleaned with a pet safe disinfectant once a week. Common ailments Caged birds are susceptible to colds and pneumonia particularly in the winter. Symptoms include watery eyes and sneezing. Tail bobbing may be a sign of breathing difficulty as the result of a cold. Keep your bird in a warm place and consult your vet. Caged birds may feather pick. This can be difficult to treat and may be symptomatic of poor nutrition, lack of exercise, stimulation or activity. Spend time with your bird and provide interesting toys and a large cage. Bathing Birds love bathing and water stimulates them to preen their feathers. A spray bottle, filled with clean, fresh, warm water can be used to squirt your bird. To avoid chilling your bird, use hot water in the spray, which will feel warm when misted. Test on the back of your hand before spraying your bird. Alternatively, you can put a bird bath in the cage filled with fresh, clean, warm water to which you can add plume spray. Toys You should provide a variety of durable toys to allow your bird to exercise and play. Toys should be small enough for the bird to play with, but not small enough to swallow. Larger birds, such as parrots, need toys made of strong wood, metal or leather as they will destroy small plastic toys. There are a wide range of toys available for caged birds, including swings, ladders, bells, lava rocks, cuttlebones, mirrors and perches. Wood, acrylic, rope, leather and rawhide toys are good for chewing on. Toys can be put directly into the cage or you can set up a playpen in a separate, adjacent cage. Toys should not be a substitute for human company and you should talk to, and play with, your bird every day. Content reprinted with thanks to Marltons | | | | | | How important is fresh feed for animals? | We all know that items such as fruit, vegetables and meat are prone to go off very quickly, but what about grain based pelleted or extruded feed?
In practical terms, the opposite of fresh food is stale. But what does stale mean and how much of a problem can it be?
Most of the ingredients used in the manufacture of both human and animal food are derived from plant seeds.
Seeds are the perfect means of packaging the genetic material of plants, together with the nutrients that they require for germination and growth. It is know that seeds can survive for decades and still germinate normally, clearly illustrating just how effective this system is. It is the tough integument that surrounds all seeds that largely protects them against the agents of destruction.
Some seeds contain known toxic agents, which offer them some protection against consumption by animals. Lupins (peas and beans) are a good example of this, and as is well known they need to be cooked in order to deactivate these toxins.
In order to make any form of animal feed, we humans need to break seeds down into a form that can be worked with. This exposes what were once the well protected chemical compounds within the seed, to those forces that cause food to become stale and possibly even dangerous. Once a seed has been milled and is mixed with other ingredients, a number of chemical and physical forces begin acting on the milled product.
The first and most important of these is what is known as auto-oxidation. In broad terms fat’s and oils deteriorate through the action of lipase and other enzymes in the oil and the action of oxygen.
Oxidation or rancidity speeds up with light (UV rays) and heat exposure.
"Auto-oxidation" occurs in the absence of air and is prevented by the use of either natural or synthetic anti-oxidants (such as Vitamin E) in the oil. Auto-oxidation proceeds slowly until all anti-oxidants are used up at which time the oil quickly becomes rancid.
A second major factor is that of fungal (moldy) contamination. Molds not only make the food unpalatable, but they also produce dangerous toxins known as mycotoxins. As we all know, storing any natural product in warm damp conditions leads to the development of these toxin producing molds. What is less well known, is that the minute a seed is milled, it becomes hugely susceptible to mold and subsequent toxin contamination. In the table that follows, the percentage of Aflatoxin (one of the most common and dangerous toxins) contamination in milled poultry feed is shown.
The most alarming aspect of the work is that within 3 weeks, two thirds of all samples contained at least some toxins. In addition, the overall levels of toxin were shown to steadily increase. Interestingly, Aflatoxin is believed to be harmful to most animal species at a level or 20 parts per billion (ppb).
A third threat to all milled product is that of viral or bacterial contamination. The bio-security measures that any feed manufacturer or animal owner have in place are important. It is essential that all products are manufactured using only the “cleanest” ingredients. To this end, Avi-products use only the best ingredients, many of which are human grade ingredients. Secondly, feed should never be manufactured or stored on a site where animals or birds are kept. The risk of passing diseases such as avian influenza (AI), Beak and Feather Disease or Newcastle disease via the food is far higher than is often appreciated. All of these highly pathogenic diseases may be spread via viruses carried by the wind.
A final aspect that needs to be remembered is that when considering food freshness is that of vitamin stability. Both the purified vitamins added to the diet and the natural vitamins that occur in the ingredients we use are liable to decay with time. In human food terms it has been shown that the vitamins in deep frozen meat and vegetables decline with time. In fresh, grain based products this degradation is far greater. As is the case with oxidation, exposing food to high temperatures, moist condition and bright UV light increases the rate of decay of the vitamins significantly.
There are numerous steps that any food manufacturer should take to ensure the delivery safe, fresh product. At Avi-Products this begins with the utilization of fresh ingredients. During manufacturing, we process (cook) nearly all of the ingredients we use in such as way as to destroy any toxins in any of the natural ingredients. This has the additional benefit of “sterilizing” our products and they are all effectively bacteria free when they leave our plant. The only ingredients that escape some form of cooking are the whole seeds and nuts that are found in some of our products.
The cooking process has a negative effect on the vitamin content of any product. This can be overcome though, by using high quality gelatin coated vitamins and by including levels of vitamins that are more than adequate for the animals’ requirements, thus overcomeing any losses during the cooking process. Both of these steps are taken at Avi-Products. In the case of our baked products like egg food, the vitamins are only added after cooking.
Lastly, we are able to preserve our food better by adding ingredients which prevent the both oxidation and mold contamination. We add organic acids (safe to man and bird as they are natural compounds) to prevent mould growth. We also add anti-oxidants to the diet. These take two forms: natural antioxidants such as Vitamin E and synthetic (but safe) ingredients. The natural ant-oxidants are not as efficient as the modern, synthetic products.
In order to ensure that our clients receive fresh product, be it bird food, fish food or dog food, it is important for us as manufacturers and for you as our clients to know what the date of manufacture is. This is always printed on our packaging. Many companies only print an expiry date on their products so this can lead to some confusion. As we use elevated vitamin levels, approved anti-oxidants and mould inhibitors in the manufacture of our products, we believe that if handled with due care our products are “safe” to be fed for a period of 6 months from manufacture. This is however not the ideal and we would far prefer to see our products consumed in a shorter time than this.
Information taken from:
http://www.aviproducts.co.za/ | | | | |
| | SMALL ANIMALS | | | | The Easter Bunny | The Easter Bunny by Brandy Massam
The first documented use of the bunny as a symbol of Easter appears in Germany in the 1500s. Not surprisingly, it was also the Germans who made the first edible Easter Bunnies in the 1800s. They were not made of chocolate, but of pastry and sugar.
It is because of this Easter bunny symbol, that the domestic rabbit has been subjected to years of suffering and abuse. So many rabbits bought over the Easter period end up neglected once the novelty of this new pet wears off. While often purchased for children, parents overlook the fact that they are the ones that must be regarded as the primary care givers, not the children. This includes regular daily exercise out of the rabbits habitat, daily grooming, a varied diet that includes, a high fibre pellet, hay and fresh vegetables and chew items to keep the rabbit’s constantly growing teeth, worn down.
Contrary to popular belief, the rabbit is not a low-maintenance pet and definitely not a very good "starter" pet for families with small children. Children may be naturally drawn to bunnies as they look so toy-like, but real live bunnies can be easily injured by an over excited child. Toddlers and small children are likely to be too rough, too loud and too unpredictable in their movements to suit the rabbit. A well cared for rabbit has a life span of seven to ten years, something most parents fail to put into practical terms. What parents don’t realise is that their little child is going to be a teenager by the time that this rabbit is grown. By this time they will have different interests, thus leaving the rabbit potentially neglected.
So if you and your child find that cute fuzzy face in the pet shop irresistible, ask yourselves, if you are prepared to love and care for this rabbit for a decade or more. If the answer is yes, then you will find the rewards of rabbit companionship well worth the effort. If your answer is no, rather buy your child a stuffed toy rabbit. Let’s make Easter a joyful time for our long-eared friends.
www.bunnychow.co.za
| | | | | | Caring for a pet Rat | Rats make extremely good family pets; they are very intelligent and become quite tame with regular handling. There are many different colour variations available such as white, black, agouti and chocolate.
Rats are not very expensive to keep; however you should buy the largest and most interesting cage you can afford.
Rats live, on average between two and two and a half years.
Fancy rats are descendants of the brown rat, which are thought to have originated from Asia.
The keeping and breeding of fancy rats became popular in the early 1900's. As a result of captive breeding there are now many different colours and coat types, such as the Rex and even Hairless!
Rats need lots of exercise and stimulation, so buy the largest cage you can afford.
There are many different types of rodent cage available, however it is essential that the cage you buy is designed for rats and NOT smaller rodents such as hamsters.
Perhaps the most suitable type of enclosure is either a large wire multi level cage or an aquarium with a well ventilated, secure lid as rats are extremely agile and can jump up to two feet or more!
The minimum size cage for one rat is 60cm x 37cm x 22cm.
You should provide your rat with an entertaining environment. Suitable items include apple tree branches, rocks, tunnels and pieces of rope. Nesting boxes suitable for birds can also be provided. The base of the cage should be covered with a layer of wood-shavings (sawdust should not be used as it is too fine and can irritate eyes and noses, and cedar wood-shavings can cause an allergic reaction).
You can also provide your rat with paper nesting material for him to nest with.
Straw is not suitable as bedding as it is too sharp and may injure your pet's eyes and mouth.
Breeding Female rats are capable of breeding at an early age. She can breed from as young as 6 weeks, but should be at least 12 weeks. Pregnancy lasts between 21 to 23 days.
Average litter size is 8, but can vary up to 18. The young rats eyes will open between 12 to 15 days.
The young can be removed from their mother at 4 weeks.
When you first get your rat home it is best to leave him alone for the first day or two, to allow him to get used to his new home. Allow your rat to sniff your hand before you handle him, this will help him get used to your smell. Gently stroke your rat in this cage to reassure him, once the rat allows you to do this he will normally allow you to pick him up.
The rat should be gently scooped up with two hands, never pick him up by this tail. Once your rat becomes tame he will enjoy coming out to play at regular intervals.
Remember your rat likes to chew, so whenever you let him out of his cage he must be supervised at all times.
Rats normally stay healthy throughout their lives. However they can be prone to a number of common complaints, most of which can be avoided with correct care and attention.
Rats can be prone to breathing problems, if your rat starts sneezing and is scratching excessively and there are no signs of mites this may mean your rat is allergic to something.
Cedar wood-shavings can sometimes cause allergic reactions in rats.
Your rat's teeth are constantly growing, and if they become too long he may be unable to eat properly. Signs that your rats teeth may not be growing properly are weight loss and a reluctance to eat and chew.
Providing your rat with treats and a mineral block will help him to keep his teeth in trim. If your pets teeth do become overgrown your must take him to your vet.
Rats in the wild are scavengers and will eat a wide range of foods. In captivity you should provide your rat with a varied diet. The basis of a good diet should consist of a dry rat mix containing a mixture of seeds, peanuts and biscuits.
This should be supplemented with cooked egg and washed and dried vegetables such as sprouts, carrots, cress, tomatoes and apples.
There are also a number of snacks and treats available for rats. Remember your rat's basic diet should consist of a dry rat mixture, all green foods and treats should be fed in moderation to avoid upsetting his stomach.
All feed bowls should be sturdy earthenware bowls as they are heavy, gnaw proof and easily cleaned and disinfected.
Uneaten food should be removed daily, and the food bowl thoroughly washed.
Remember your rat will drink a lot compared to other rodents so make sure clean, fresh water is available at all times.
Your rat can be kept singly providing that you give him lots of human contact, care and attention. If you prefer you can keep two females together provided you buy them as babies and at the same time.
Remember that mixed sexes will breed very quickly.
The cage should be cleaned at least once a week with hot water and a disinfectant suitable for pets.
Rats are very clean and normally do not smell. Your rat will normally use one area of his cage as a toilet; this may need cleaning daily to reduce any smell. | | | | | | Caring for a Rabbit - Diet, Exercise, Grooming & Health | DIET
Daily
Your buns should have fresh water, a high fibre pellet no less than 21% fibre (Bunny Chow Rabbit Pellets), plenty of hay (Orchard Grass) and a good serving of fresh greens i.e. all types of herbs, green/red peppers and carrot tops
Weekly
A small piece of fruit i.e apple or pear. OR a small piece of carrot.
Never give nuts, anything containing sugar, cabbage, lettuce or potatoes.
EXERCISE
All rabbits need plenty of exercise to keep their muscles healthy and their digestive system functioning well. Your buns should have at least 2 hours a day where they have plenty of space to run and that means being able to build up speed.
GROOMING
Your buns should be brushed daily. This is a great bonding time for you and your bun, plus it removes loose fur that would normally be ingested by the bun or his partner. This is why it is so important for rabbits to have a high fibre diet, as the fibre helps ingested hair pass through the rabbit's digestive system. A diet too low in fibre will cause major blockages and GI Stasis will set in. This is a condition where the normal movements of the digestive system, stops. Prevention of this condition is better than cure, as it can be life threatening.
I usually use a flea comb on my buns, as most cat flea preparations are deadly for rabbits. This last summer I used Advantage for cats which really helped get rid of the fleas.
Please speak to a 'rabbit' experienced vet when buying Advantage for your buns as they will help you with the amount needed for the weight of your bun.
NAILS
Once a month your bun should have his nails clipped. Free range rabbits that dig a lot usually don't need their nails clipped as they wear down. If you are too nervous to do this, you can get your vet to do this for you. When clipping your rabbit's nails, remember to look out for the blood vessel that runs close to the end of the nail. Be cautious and clip small pieces off at a time.
TEETH
Once a month check that your rabbit's teeth are not overgrown. The top incisors should overlap the bottom ones and should be white and straight. Signs of teeth problems is a wet chin. If your rabbit wants to eat soft food rather than pellets, this too could be a sign. It is so easy for teeth problems to go un-noticed. My Marge carried on eating, but when I touched her face, she would flinch. I knew this was a sign of something, not being right. When ever you take your bun to the vet, get them to check the back teeth, as these can cause very painful problems if they are misaligned.
SPRAYING & NEUTURING
This is so important. If you think that you can let your rabbits just have one litter of bunnies, then think again. It won't stop there. The day she gives birth, if the male is present, and mounts her, she will fall pregnant again.
Females have a 75% chance of getting uterus, mammary or ovarian cancer if not spayed and males will become less aggressive if neutered. Remember to take your rabbits to a 'rabbit' experienced vet.
As an extra note
Remember that rabbits can live for as long as 12 years. Keeping your rabbit healthy will give him the best chance to reach this ripe old age. Nutrition, exercise and clean living conditions will help give your rabbit a long and healthy life.
Article extracted from the Bunny Chow newsletter with our gratitude.
| | | | | | Bunny FAQ | 1. What are the ideal living conditions for a rabbit in suburbia – cage or fenced garden?(I know that they can dig holes underneath a fence.)
I like the idea of a fenced, safe part of a garden that is fenced off, with a secure cage in this enclosure at least 1.5m x 1m per rabbit This way he is safe at night from any predators. Remember to put a lock on the cage and never let your rabbit stand on wire floors. A good idea is to leave his cage open during the day so he can come and go having his Bunny Chow pellets and water available at all times.
2. Is his cage big enough? (1.5m x 1m)
This cage is big enough, but your rabbit will need extra exercise every day.
3. What does the ideal rabbit-housing look like, i.e. measurements?
Your rabbit's place where he can exercise should be big enough for him to build up quite a bit of speed. There should also be a grassy area, where he can browse. Remember if your rabbit is outside at night he needs to have an area where he can keep away from the cold and rain. This is very important. The cage/house should also be raised off the ground in case of heavy rain.
4. What does your rabbits’ housing look like?
Marge, my one rabbit is free range, having the whole garden. The other 2 are in an enclosure, where there are two wooden huts with wired in verandas. The bonded pair are locked in the one hut at night and Marge in the other.
5. Will I eventually be able to tame my rabbit and how do I go about doing this?
In general rabbit's don't like to be held, but rabbit's love to have their heads scratched. Remember that they are a prey species, so are very nervous of sudden movements, especially above them. They have excellent long distance vision, but there close up vision is not so good, so rather bend down to your rabbit's level, so as not to frighten him. Start off by scratching his head and then placing your hand under his nose. Once he gets comfortable with you, he will lick your hand and even nudge you letting you know that you need to carry on scratching his head.
6. I am not sure if he gets enough stimulation by sitting in his cage all day. What can I do to remedy this; are there playthings available for rabbits?
As said earlier, rabbits need a lot of time out of their cage, but this is not always possible when their owners are out. Rabbits love to chew pieces of untreated wood, fruit tree branches (make sure there are no poisons sprayed on the tree), an old telephone directory and grass runners and hay. Toys like babies rattles, cat balls with bells inside and even the cardboard from a toilet roll will also keep them very occupied. My Pillsbury is a keen soccer player, but his two sisters are not interested in joining in.
7. I would like to let him out of his cage, but am afraid that he will run away and end up as road kill on the busy road, unlike his ‘skilled’ parents. How will I know if and when he is ready to run loose? (I want to be able to put him back in his cage again at some stage.)
Start off introducing him to your garden slowly. Your garden should be fully fenced, with no way for him to escape. Watch him slowly and let him work out his territory. You will find that he will trace his steps, just making sure that his familiar surroundings are still there. Some rabbits are difficult to catch once they are running free. You need to have a plan on how you are going to catch him, before you let him out.
8. I’ve heard that some people have “house rabbits”; rabbits that live in the house and uses a litter tray (mine is litter tray trained). Is this a preferable option and how will I know when my rabbit is ready for this?
Even though my rabbits are outdoors, they still use a litter box. The litter box should always be placed in the same position, as rabbits hate change. Using a litter box makes it a lot easier for the rabbit owner when it comes to cleaning his cage. Even from an early age, all rabbits will learn to use a litterbox. If you want to keep your rabbit indoors, he will still need his own space. Rabbits chew electrical cords, so should be supervised when having their daily run.
9. Are there certain foods and plants that are poisonous to rabbits?
I think that rabbits have an inbred knowledge on what plants they should and should not eat, but very often their owners are the problem. Never give your rabbit anything with sugar, anything starchy like bread (even whole-wheat), cabbage, lettuce and corn.
10. What kind of vegetables can I feed my rabbit?
Rabbits can eat any of the green/orange/red peppers, carrot tops and a weekly small serving of apple or pear. Go easy on carrots, spinach and turnips.
11. Must I feed him only at particular times or leave food out at all times?
Rabbits are not like cats and dogs where they get fed once or twice a day. They need food at all times and need a high fibre pellet to prevent any digestive problems. In the wild rabbits would live on grass which is very high in fibre, so they should have a bowl of Bunny Chow pellets available at all times. They must also have at least one serving of veggies/herbs a day. Remember to introduce new veggies, one at a time.
12. What type of herbs can I give my rabbit?
Once a week I buy my 3 rabbits a big bag of herbs from a herb supplier. This bag consists of, fennel, dill, basil, chervil, coriander, parsley, sage and rocket. I feel herbs are the best bet when giving your rabbit fresh food.
Article extracted from the Bunny Chow newsletter with our gratitude.
| | | | | | Caring for a Hamster | | Hamsters make good family pets. They need very little space and are easy to look after. They are nocturnal and therefore like to hide away during the day but will come out to play in the evening. Hamsters live, on average, for two and a half years. The Syrian or Golden hamster comes from the deserts of North Africa. They were first bred in captivity in Israel from where they were introduced as pets to Britain. More recently other breeds have appeared from different parts of the world, for example, the Chinese hamster. Hamsters need a lot of exercise, so buy the biggest cage you can afford, preferably at least 60 cm long x 30 cm wide x 45 cm high. Plastic cages with metal tops are best as wooden ones will be gnawed and splinters can damage the hamster's pouch. The modular, stacking systems such as Rotastak provide lots of interest and fun for pet and owner and you can add extra rooms to make them larger. Use wood chips on the floor and add either shredded paper of Nestledown for bedding. Do not use hay. Hamsters will divide their accommodation up into sleeping, eating, bathroom and play areas. Hamsters like to exercise daily and if provided with a wheel and/or a ball they can run the equivalent of 4 - 8 miles in an evening! When you first get your hamster home, leave him alone for the first day or two to et used to his new surroundings. After that it is important to handle regularly to build up a relationship, but remember hamster have very poor vision. First of all talk to him and let him get used to your voice. Then introduce your hand so that he can become used to your smell. Finally pick him up very gently by cupping one hand under him and over him. Young children should be supervised when handling hamsters and must take great care not to drop them. Eventually he should come to you and eat out of your hand. Breeding Hamsters can reproduce faster than any other mammal. Females can breed at 6 weeks, but should be at least 12 weeks Length of pregnancy is 16 days Average litter size is 6, but can vary form 2-15 The young hamsterís eyes will open after 10-15 days The young can be removed from their mother at 3 weeks and will be fully grown by 3 months. Hamsters normally stay healthy throughout their short lives. However, there are a number of common complaints, most of which can be avoided by looking after them correctly. If your hamster's coat appears ruffled, he loses his appetite, coughs and sneezes and has a nasal discharge, he probably has a cold. Keep him warm and if symptoms persist take him to the vet. Hamsters can catch colds form humans so avoid handling if you have one. Colds can be avoided by keeping the cage out of draughts and the temperature between 18-22 degrees C. In cold weather put more bedding in the cage. If you hamster becomes too cold he may go into hibernation and will need to be warmed up in your hands to wake him up. Hamsters are susceptible to a severe diarrhoea known as Wet Tail which should be treated immediately by a vet. The cage should then be thoroughly cleaned with disinfectant. Wet Tail can be caused by rotten or mouldy food or bedding or by stress from too much handling, particularly with a new hamster. Your hamster may suffer a mild form of diarrhoea from too much fruit or vegetables and too many dry pellets can cause constipation. In both cased an adjustment to the diet is required. Your hamster's teeth will grow constantly and if they get too long he may be unable to chew properly. Hamster treats and a mineral stone will help him wear his teeth down. The hamster's cage should be cleaned once a week with hot water and a pet safe disinfectant. Normally a hamster will use one area of his cage as a toilet so remove the wet litter from here daily. Never let your hamster out of his cage unsupervised and remember he like to chew things, so keep him away form electric cables! Well looked after hamsters are quite happy living on their own and it is best to keep Syrian hamsters alone. Females can be quite aggressive at certain times of the breeding cycle and males will almost certainly fight. If you want to keep more than one animal it is probably better to consider dwarf hamsters or gerbils. Hamsters in the wild are omnivores and will eat a wide variety of food. However, a dry hamster mix or pellets will provide all the minerals, vitamins and nutrients required and are clean and hygienic. Hamster will hoard their food and therefore fresh fruit, carrot, lettuce or cabbage should be fed by hand so that you know it has been eater and not hoarded away where it can rot. Vitamin supplements can be added to the diet once a week and mineral blocks and chew treats are usually popular. Food bowls should be sturdy and hard to tip over as the hamsters will climb into them. They should be gnaw-proof and easy to clean. Remove uneaten food and wash food bowl daily and wash out the water bottle and drinking tube regularly. Content courtesy of Marltons | | | | | | Handling a Bunny | Rabbits do not like to be held for long periods of time. By handling your bun gently and using a soft caring voice, he will learn to be at ease when being picked up.
The correct way to handle a rabbit is to place one hand under the rabbits back legs and the other under the chest. Then slowly bring the rabbit up close to your chest, keeping the one hand at the hindquarters and other at the back of his neck, while gently pressing the rabbit closer to you, so that his feet feel secure.
Hold him firmly, so that he cannot kick or jump, running the risk of injuring himself. If when you are holding your rabbit, he starts to kick and looks like he is about to fall, drop to your knees so that he doesn’t have too far a distance to fall.
Points to remember:
- Don’t ever pick your rabbit up by the ears. This is extremely painful.
- Don’t ever pick your rabbit up by the flesh around the shoulders or the neck.
- Don’t ever punish your rabbit by hitting him. He will learn more by you being loving and patient.
Article extracted from the Bunny Chow newsletter with our gratitude
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| | BABOONS | | | | Practical Do's & Do Nots | Jenni Trethowan from Baboon Matters suggests the most effective way to keep baboons from coming to your property is to try and ensure that the “rewards” are kept to a minimum – in other words if there is no easily available food (in the form of waste from your dustbin, fruit trees, bird food etc) and no easy access to your house; then the baboons will pass by and not spend time on your property.
Sometimes you will have taken all the necessary precautions and you still see baboons – but you have to remember that what is happening on your neighbour’s property will have a direct influence on your property, so try to work together as a community looking at all easy rewards and ways to reduce those rewards so that it becomes more attractive for the baboons to stay out of town.
Some of her other suggestions include:
- Ensure there is no easily available food for Baboons in your village/home by:
- Baboon-proofing your dustbin. If you need further info, contact Baboon Matters.
- Remember that fruiting trees, vines and even fish ponds are huge attractions to baboons and attract them
- by feeding guinea fowl, porcupine and other wildlife, you are attracting the baboons as they will take advantage of the easily available seeds and grains.
- Use contained composting bins, rather than an open compost heap.
- Burglar-proof your home and make sure there is no more than an 8cm gap in the bars on windows that are to be left open.
- The best way to chase off baboons is by spraying them with water from a hosepipe.
- Do not leave dog food outside for your animals.
- Never set your dogs on the baboons.
- Never feed the baboons.
- Never try to take food from a baboon.
- Never eat lunch or snacks outside when you know the baboons are around. However, it is safe to be outside without food when the baboons are present.
- If the baboons are in your house, stay calm and leave a window or door open for them to escape quickly. They will invariably leave without making too much mess if there is an easy escape route and you do not panic.
- A baboon will never attack unless they are provoked and feel that they, or their children, are threatened.
It is an offence to hurt the baboons in any way. People who intentionally hurt them can, and will, be prosecuted.
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